Five Things: Perro Salado, Newport
Wednesday, July 03, 2013
Rhode Island can be a big, little place sometimes. For a long time this hidden gem in Newport's Point District that was putting out delicious meals with Mexican influence, stayed under the radar. With the play on a typical Newport theme, a Salty Dog, inspiring its name, Perro Salado beckons Sean DeBobes south once again for a meal. Here are the five things he wants you to know...
One. Sour Mix.
Cocktail crafters always think about the spirits in a cocktail. Just as important are any of the juices or mixes that go in. Perro Salado shook up two tinctures for me using their house-made sour mix, both were delicious. The Bourbon and Blood Orange Sour, using Buffalo Trace bourbon was definitely right up my alley. I was surprised how refreshing this bourbon based cocktail was. Great for a novice brown liquor drinker or someone who enjoys it neat. The Rhubarb Margarita was, as expected, perfect for sipping on the outside deck during a Newport sunset. Perro Salado’s classic margarita which has an almost creamy quality to it was joined by a hint of rhubarb on the finish. A subtle deviation that really created an upbeat end to the drink.
Two. Melt In Your Mouth.
Two words, Avocado Fries. This dish, when pulled off correctly, is a real treat. The team at Perro certainly know what they are doing with this one. Perfectly ripe avocado chunks with coated with a breading and fried to a very crispy finish. The result was an initial crunch that gave way to a creamy center with a unique flavor. Chef serves this with a side of chipotle mayo and while many of these sauces smoke you out, this one provided a bit of heat with a nuance of smoke in the background that really complimented the avocado.
GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLASTThree. The Canon.
For a restaurant that bills themselves as “inspired Mexican” I thought I should try some classics, redone. The duck tamale was a real treat. Pulled duck and masa were cooked in the husk and topped with a smoky peanut mole and a queso fresco. This dish was spicier than I would have imagined for duck but it worked perfectly, particularly with a bite of grated cheese. I was also pleasantly surprised to see this dish served with a refried black bean instead of the common pinto. This dish really brought home for me that Perro Salado has a distinct focus. Taking fresh ingredients and using them to make classic Mexican dishes with a kicked up new take.
Four. Seared Sea Scallops.
Now I don’t immediately think Mexican when I hear scallops, but after tasting this dish I will think Perro Salado. First, chef perfectly sears a scallop so one side is golden and caramelized, giving that textbook crunch when the fork first breaks the surface. This flawless execution let me focus on the flavor of the sauce. A warm mango and habanero salsa that had a sweet forward and a great slow-burning heat on the finish. This was paired with a side of coconut scented rice that tied the dish together into a semi-tropical experience.
Five. Flan, of Course.
Call it cliché or call it classic, just be sure to order the flan. Custards are always a favorite of mine but this one really hits the mark. The warm, mostly set custard is the centerpiece of this dish, but chef finishes it a little different. This night the kitchen had prepared blueberry and mango compotes to crown this dish. Fresh blueberries, whipped cream and cinnamon also helped to finish. I most enjoyed the seldom seen combination of blueberry and cinnamon that seemed to go so well with the whole meal.
Hit “Save”: Perro Salado. 19 Charles St, Newport. 619.4777. perrosalado.com.
Would I go back? Yes, In two reviews I couldn’t help but love everything I tried.
Love food? Follow Sean DeBobes + Five Things on Facebook, and on Twitter @SeanDebobes.
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