Five Things: Coco Pazzo, Providence
Wednesday, May 02, 2012
Just off Thayer Street on College Hill, Coco Pazzo offers fun, fresh fare at fantastic prices. Get there before the graduation rush.
One. At the bar.
The cocktail list at Coco Pazzo is comprised of some old standbys along with some reimagined classics. Though I would have liked to see the menu diversified with some whiskey drinks, I didn’t miss them when I tried what the bartenders had crafted. The dirty martini was delivered filthy, as the menu promised. The heavy olive-juice pour blended perfectly with a blue cheese stuffed olive to bring the Absolut vodka to life. On the sweeter side I also sipped at the ginger mojito, a balanced blend of Canton, Bacardi, simple, lime and mint that delivered a refreshing flavor with a spicy backbone.
Two. “Tacos”.
Coco crafted two redesigned tacos as appetizers. The tuna ceviche, served on tortilla points with radishes and a light soy glaze was sweet, sharp and fresh. The sushi-grade quality was much appreciated in this almost raw service. I really enjoyed the next plate, a delicious braised beef brisket served in a pita “taco”. The tender beef combined with a flavorful chive cream mixed to create a memorable bite.
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Though the menu doesn’t bill these items together, I would highly recommend the mussels in rosemary cream sauce to accompany the truffle fries. The herbaceous and earthy fries create the perfect side, and just right for sopping up all of the wonderfully crafted mussel sauce. The cream, refined with a strong rosemary essence along with subtle garlic flavor slowly steamed open the bivalves to a perfectly cooked finish.
Four. Pork.
I was eager to see how Coco’s kitchen would fare when it came to their… chops. A double-thick pan seared pork chop proved the skills behind that line. A faultlessly cooked cut of meat was further enhanced with a delicious red onion and gorgonzola butter. The flavorful sweet butter mix melted hastily over the pork creating a mouthwatering blend with the jus.
Five. Nutella crepes.
There is no reason to be anywhere near Coco Pazzo and not stop in to order this wonderful dessert. A simply prepared crepe received a treatment of warm Nutella before being topped with caramelized bananas. This unpretentious ending was utterly unforgettable.
Be sure to consider Coco Pazzo for upcoming college/high school graduations. This well priced restaurant has something for everyone.
Would I go back? Yes. At these prices, this is a memorable meal with a forgettable bill. A College Hill find.
Hit “Save”: Coco Pazzo, 165 Angell St, Providence, 401-454-3434.
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