Five Things: Lola’s Tequila Bar & Cantina, Providence
Wednesday, March 07, 2012
When it opened late last year, Lola's Tequila Bar & Cantina looked like a sexy waterplace bar for margaritas. While that's still true, chef Jonathan Beres is making a reputation for fresh takes on Mexican classic cuisine. Sean DeBobes headed south to check in. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Salsa please.
I’m going to start with a big declaration. Craft salsas are reason enough to visit Lola’s. Chef Beres is producing 19 (yes, 19) fresh, innovative and fun salsas. The price point is practically free ($0.50 for a taste) so order a few and taste your way around. The house salsa is great – clean and refreshing. However, I would really recommend the salsa macha. This unique peanut-based salsa crosses cuisines with a robust and spicy profile. Equally impressive, the pineapple-habanero salsa was a lustrous-smooth blend of sweet and heat. I can’t imagine many things I wouldn’t want to eat this on.
Two. Tequila.
(Sing it like The Champs for extra points). No matter how you like it, Lola’s has a tequila delivery for you. If you want to try your way around the ever-growing tequila selection ask the bar to send you a sampler. My
fantastic waitress, Mo, selected a flight of four diverse tequilas for me to sip. Single barrel reserve Milagro, Jose Cuervo Family Reserve Platinum, AsomBrosa Reposado and a Casa Noble Anejo crossed the great agave divide from smooth-clear-filtered, to dark-aged and intense. If you are looking for something a bit sweeter, try the house margarita. This classic drink with Torado Gold, lime, triple sec and house-made simple syrup is a clear crowd pleaser. At $4 it is a great deal too.GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLAST
Three. Fish of the Day.
Pick your pescado. Chef offers a daily special and regular menu version of the fish taco and ceviche, and with this many options it can be difficult to choose. I opted for the special taco, a spicy marinated grilled shrimp in a locally made flour tortilla (from Academy + Atwells Piaxtla) with chipotle mayo, queso fresco and a tomatillo-habanero pico de gallo. This is the stuff of legends. A little smokey, a perfect balanced heat, and a reason for me to not drive to Silver Lake for outstanding tacos anymore.
Four. Elote y Sopa.
Try this combo for an instant lunch your taste buds will owe you for. The classic grilled Mexican street corn was served with a lime mayo, cotija cheese and ancho chili powder. Instead of the often seen shaved in a bowl service, chef decided to serve this on the cob and on a skewer for mess-free delivery. Such a simple pleasure. The Albondigas (meatball) soup truly floored me. A simple soup—pork meatballs, rice and a tomato broth—prepared with a deft touch. There was so much flavor packed into each spoonful. A rich reduced vegetable essence with a refreshing cilantro accent, the broth was stellar.
Five. Assurance.
With every bite it is clear that Chef Jonathan Beres paid his dues in the world of fine dining before taking up the helm of this cantina. The clear vision of Lola’s is a sound CalMex base elevated with layers of exceptional flavor and remarkable planning.
Would I go back? Yes. If only this column was called 15 Things. You may find me regularly at $2 Taco Tuesday.
Hit “Save” Lola's Tequila Bar & Cantina, 525 South Water Street, Providence, 401-383-0220.
Want to know more? Follow Sean DeBobes on the Five Things Facebook page, or on Twitter @SeanDeBobes.
For more Food coverage, don't miss GoLocalTV, fresh every day (like Chef Beres' salsa) at 4pm and on demand 24/7, here.
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