Five Things: David Burke Prime, Foxwoods
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
It's summer getaway season, and Sean DeBobes had been hearing about celebrity chef David Burke's hotspot at Foxwoods all year. Now was his chance. He snuck across the border to one of RI's top getaway destinations to check out the culinary factor. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Summer cocktails
Nothing gets me into a summery mood more than a well-crafted warm weather libation. David Burke’s Wild Orchid cocktail did just that. Behind the well-appointed bar mixologists shake together house-made ginger syrup with Hanger Mandarin blossom vodka – with just a splash of cranberry juice this concoction was only subtly sweet but with a brilliant and clean ginger flavor.
Two. Bacon
I adore when a chef takes the mundane and turns it into something glossy and new (Rumpelstiltskin be damned). So of course I was delighted to see breakfast repurposed as an appetizer. Chef takes double-cut slices of bacon and dresses them in a maple and pepper glaze before drizzling with a little mustard oil. I loved this dish. This crispy, sweet and thoughtful appetizer was as mouth watering as… well… bacon.
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Starting with the best ingredients is always how to ensure a meal will be special. At DBP they make certain of this by elevating their beef in an imported-pink-Himalayan-rock-salt-lined aging room. (You may have to travel all the way to NY before finding as large of an aging room in a restaurant.) It was all worth it when I bit into the best steak I have had in quite some time. Juicy, tender and incredibly flavorful, this Kentucky Rib eye was all I would need to taste to head back for another meal. If steak isn’t for you, Prime still has you covered with some excellent options. I opted for a Swordfish Oscar. Topping a creamy and flavorful helping of lemon and asparagus risotto was a cut of Block Island Swordfish. At its zenith, a pile of sweet crab meat drizzled with béarnaise sauce. Food to write home about.
Four. Spot-on sides
Chef does a great balancing act with the side dishes. Flavorful and capable of standing alone but not overpowering the main dish. I tried a few but my favorite had to be the Cabernet onion gratin. Thick slices of red onion were simmered in a cabernet wine. A treatment of gorgonzola was added before being broiled to a sweet and robust finish.
Five. Memorable Notes
This place has some serious wow factor. Carts race madly through the room to prepare tableside Caesars, while every check comes with a fluffy pile of cotton candy. The signature dessert, Can O’Cake, comes freshly iced with caramel cream cheese and travels in its own take-home tin to help make your friends jealous. Just when you think it’s all over the server sends you on your way with some delicious chocolate truffles.
Would I go back? You couldn’t stop me. David Burke has hit the mark with this approachable yet high end steak house. A real pleasure.
Hit “Save”: David Burke Prime Steakhouse. Foxwoods Casino, Mashuntucket, CT. 860-312-8753. Lunch Mon-Sat noon-4:30, dinner 5 – Mon-Thurs 10:30, Fri/Sat 11 and Sun 10. Sun Brunch 11-3:30.
Like food? Follow Sean's reviews and get behind-the-scenes postings on Facebook, here.
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