Five Things: La Forge Casino, Newport
Wednesday, June 08, 2011
The onslaught of sudden summer sent Sean DeBobes south to Aquidneck to check up on the famed La Forge Casino that overlooks the green grass courts of Newport's International Tennis Hall of Fame. Was it a love match? Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Lobster.
This is Newport, and seafood is the order of the day - lobster, in particular. Hard to know which to indulge in first. The lobster bisque is made the old-fashioned way with a touch of sherry, which provides a mild bite to offset the sweetness of the lobster. The lobster salad roll was simple as can be, with big chunks of it spilling out of the roll and onto the plate, while the lobster salad plate had a California-Cobb salad appeal to it with avocado and eggs. Tradition, perfectly executed. I'm ready to watch some tennis.
Two. Tradition, tableside.
There's such a sense of Old Newport at La Forge, and so how could I resist an equally old-school Newport classic... chateaubriand for two? A grilled, center-cut beef tenderloin arrived with baked potato and a show of
carving tableside. I loved the lost-art, old-world culinary flair. You can have those athletes out there... I've got the show I want to watch! GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLAST
3. Location, location, location.
Bellevue Avenue has always been the place to be. It still feels that way at my table, taking in the view of the International Tennis Hall of Fame, a landmark of sport and style. I feel like getting my Gatsby on with a gimlet... I recommend you do the same.
Four. Family cheese.
What restaurant is able to offer its own cheese on a burger? Vermont Crowley cheddar cheese topped off a very, very good classic burger, elevating it to one of the better burgers in the state. The cheese factory is the oldest continuously operating cheese producer in America, and I'm here to say they've perfected the art. Made in small batches with original equipment and by hand, it added a sharp and creamy bite. Fries on the side
and I'm as happy as a socialite whose oil stocks just doubled.
Five. Stuffed.
It's summer, yes? So how can you not enjoy a bounty of Rhode Island classics while dallying at La Forge? For me, it was stuffed quahogs, big and full with clams, chourico, onions and topped with bacon. You don't often see it done well, and this was a delight. I'm considering getting a dozen to go for my next rooftop cocktail party this summer.
Would I go back? It's a true Newport experience, with classic fare. If a friend were visiting, we'd head courtside for a drink and lobster roll.
Hit "save": La Forge Casino, 186 Bellevue Ave, Newport, 847-0418. Sun 9am-9pm, Mon-Thurs 11:30am-9pm, Fri & Sat 11:30am-10pm; Lunch from 11:30, Dinner from 5pm.
Like food? Follow Sean's reviews and get behind-the-scenes postings on Facebook, here.
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