Five Things: Bravo Brasserie, Providence
Wednesday, October 06, 2010
With theater season in full swing in Providence, it was time to see if Bravo Brasserie, one of the downtown's seven-day-a-week favorite spots for pre-and-post show noshing, was still worth its leading role. Sean DeBobes tucked into the American version of a French brasserie to check for drama. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Moules Dijon.
The Dijon mussels were positively a crowd pleaser. Super fresh mussels were steamed in a light Dijon cream sauce and served with grilled slices of Tuscan bread. I hadn’t planned on ordering this but when the table next to me had a bowl I had immediate shellfish envy and needed my own… or a longer fork. The potent flavor and aroma were a wonderful way to start my meal. Bonus: this overflowing appetizer was a steal at only $11, so bring a friend and reap the benefits.
Two. Buildup-Letdown.
A Colorado lamb steak, grilled and topped with a tomato and feta relish, then served with spinach and rosemary pomme frites. Sound delicious? I thought so too. Unfortunately the execution didn’t live up to the stirring beginnings. The lamb lacked seasoning and was cooked passed my stated preference. The relish,
although fresh and nicely balanced, ne’er saw as much as a pinch of salt (and could have used that pinch). The spinach base really let me down, though - overcooked and sitting in a pool of oil. And yet: I will note that the pommes frites (below) were exceptional. Peppery and oh-so-delicious, those truly French fries are worth a trip alone.GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLAST
Three. Burgers.
I have said it before and will say it again. I think Bravo hits it out of the park with their burgers. They are incredibly moist, flavorful and always hit the spot for me. Served with a Danish blue cheese and applewood smoked bacon, the blue burger just reminded me of the brasserie's dominance. Next time we're naming Best Burgers, I'm putting this class act at the top of the list.
Four. Make a meal.
The appetizers that I tried at Bravo were exceptional. My dining companion decided to forgo an entrée, in fact, for the age-old double-appetizer meal. An asparagus ravioli with arugula was served in a bowl of vegetable broth instead of sauce. The earthy flavor of the mushrooms provided a great background while
the salty parmesan helped on the high notes. A sesame encrusted tuna served with a sweet and spicy soy ginger glaze was accompanied by a wasabi aioli that quickly became the go-to dipping sauce for everything on the table.
Five. Skip Dessert.
Sweet endings aren't Bravo’s strong suit. The menu was dotted with overexposed treats like milk and cookies. I tried the Tropezienne, a brioche base topped with pastry cream, but found the brioche dry and accouterments - whipped cream from a can and underripened strawberries - disappointing. Focus, instead, on a glass of port from the excellent bar.
Would I go back? Yes, there were some low notes with my most recent visit, but there were enough high notes to bring me back for another round.
Hit “Save”: Bravo Brasserie, 123 Empire St, Providence, 490-5112. Open Mon for dinner and Tues–Sun for lunch and dinner. Dinner reservations encouraged.
Food photography: Jennifer Hess/Last Night's Dinner
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