The Cellar: Under the Radar Whites

Friday, July 10, 2015

 

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This week I want to feature two fantastic white wines that are great for warm weather sipping. They are made from varietals that are somewhat under the radar; grapes any curious winos should seek out. What are the wines? A premium quality single vineyard Gewürztraminer from Italy and a Pinot Blanc made partially from Alsatian Grand Cru grapes.

The Gewürz

One of my favorite grape varieties is the widely underappreciated and often misunderstood pink-skinned Gewürztraminer. ‘Gewürz’, as is it called in wine circles, is one of the more distinct members of the Vinifera grape family making it relatively easy to identify in a blind tasting. Rarely blended, Gewürz makes medium to full bodied wines, often deeply colored, sometimes slightly sweet and always very aromatic. Gewürz has an interesting history. DNA testing has shown that Gewürztraminer was born as a result of a natural mutation that occurred around 1000AD between the grape varieties Traminer and Pinot. Named partially after the north Italian village of Tramin in Alto Adige where this took place, Gewürztraminer is also planted in Austria, Germany and in the northeastern French wine region of Alsace.

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This week’s recommended example is the highly rated 2013 ‘Kastelaz’ Gewürztraminer from Elena Walch. Kastelaz is the name of the single vineyard where the grapes are grown. Only the ripest of grapes are picked (over two harvests), and pressed very carefully. After a 6 hour cold maceration and clarification, the juice undergoes an alcoholic fermentation. No oak, just pure, delicious Gewürz. On the nose this wine screams Gewürztraminer with its distinct tropical and floral aromatics. On the palate the wine is soft in texture, intense but extremely balanced in flavor. Flavors of the lychee fruit, pineapple and clove are among the most prominent notes. A long, spicy finish indicates a wine well made. $30ish.

The Pinot Blanc

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This week’s second feature is a Pinot Blanc – a highly versatile grape variety that is used in still, as well as sparkling wine production in France, Italy and Germany. If you like Chardonnay, you might like Pinot Blanc. They are somewhat similar in that both are considered ‘blank canvases’ that lends themselves to the will and ability of the winemaker. Most Pinot Blancs are medium to full-bodied wines with good acidity often displaying apple and pear flavors and sometimes noticeable oak.

A great locally available example is the 2013 Pinot Blanc ‘Les Princes Abbés’ from Domaines Schlumberger. The wine is made by blending Pinot Blanc sourced from different vineyards, among them the Grand Cru vineyards Saering and Spiegel, as well as other regional vineyards. On the palate the wine is medium-bodied with yellow apple, almonds and a hint of ripe citrus. Good stuff and a great value for well under $20

Cheers,

Steffen Rasch is a Certified Sommelier and Specialist of Wine. Feel free to email him at [email protected] with any wine-related questions or learn about wine in person by signing up for one of his tastings through the Providence Wine Academy.

 

Related Slideshow: Rhode Island’s Best Wineries

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Tours and tastings occur Sunday – Friday at 1 and 3 p.m. and hourly on Saturday from 11 a.m. – 4 p.m. $12 per person for 5 samples; $15 per person for 5 samples plus signature glass. 909 East Main Rd. 848-5161,www.newportvineyards.com

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