The Cellar: Box Wines
Saturday, February 12, 2011
Only a few years ago the reputation of box wine was in the gutter. It appeared no wine critic with respect for him or herself would pin their reputation on glorifying a wine that came in a cardboard box.
Over the years the quality of box wine is supposed to have increased. So I was thrilled when I had the opportunity to experience this myself at a recent box wine tasting. Box wines are great as a cost-saving measure for large events, and because they tend to be stay fresh for 2-3 weeks they can also work as your everyday sipper. After having tasted a dozen or so examples I have to admit that I still don’t think the quality has gotten much better. That being said, I think the emergence of established producers is interesting and holds for a bright box wine future. While none of the wine reviewed is ‘must-try’ wines, none of them is truly bad. They all come in three-liter boxes and retail for around $20 - that’s five bucks a bottle ladies and gentlemen!
2009 Black Box Cabernet Sauvignon
The backstory: Over the years box wine has become synonymous with the brand ‘Black Box. You might think you have never had any Black Box, but I can guarantee that you probably have. Think of any large event you have
attended in the past 5 or so years. Did they serve free wine in clear plastic cup? If the answer is yes then you have probably had Black Box. In 2003, Black Box became the first to offer what they call ‘super-premium’, appellation-specific, vintage-dated wines in a box and with millions of boxes sold annually the brand is a major player on the box wine marked.GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLAST
The wine: According to California wine regulations a ‘Cabernet Sauvignon’ only has to consist of 75% actual Cabernet Sauvignon to be allowed to bear the name. This wine is 83% Cabernet and contains four other grapes along with some 8% ‘dry red’. Not sure what that is. Nevertheless, the wine is absolutely serviceable, probably the better of three. It has fresh red fruit and for once I can actually sense some acid, which gives this wine some character. I feel something pulling in my mouth and that excites me. It lingers a little bit, but fades pretty quickly.
2009 Duca del Frassino Garganega Pinot Grigio
The backstory: Duca del Frassino prizes itself as being ‘the first-ever premium box wine from Italy’. Cantina di Soave is one of the larger wineries in the Veneto region. The people behind this effort are serious winemakers and markets
this wine along side their $55 per bottle Amarone. The 2009 blend consists of 80% Garganega and 20% Pinot Grigio. Both grape varietals are widely grown in Veneto region of Northern Italy. You normally don’t see old world wine regions and their big producers market themselves on box wines. This is something I hope we will see more of in the future.
The wine: This is a nice wine, definitely serviceable at $5 a bottle, but it doesn’t taste much like a Pinot Grigio from the Veneto if that is what you are expecting. On the nose I detect nice floral soap aromas, along with some banana peel. It is a medium bodied wine that is pretty smooth. It is a little hollow on the midpalate with some nice acidity in the backend. The finish lingers nicely. As most other lower quality wines this is best served chilled as it appears more crisp and refreshing. At room temperature it was somewhat flat, however still with the nice lingering acidity.
2009 Bota Box Malbec
The backstory: One thing I have discovered tasting through a dozen box wines is that winemakers seek a smooth and slightly sweet sipping experience. These wines are definitely made with the American palate in mind. The last
wine is Bota Box Malbec. Bota Box is a Californian box wine producer that markets itself by being not just economic, but also to be environmentally conscious using 100% recyclable cardboard, etc.
The wine: Of the three the 2009 Bota Box Malbec probably has the more interesting nose. While it is thick of sweet blackberry jam, there are also interesting hints of licorice and smoke. On the palate however it falls very short. There is a little sweetness, a faint bitterness and some sour cherries but as a while it is very thin and not really exciting.
Overall, it is my conclusion that box wines still have some way to go. I like the environmental benefits and the value aspect of three-liter packs and that they can stay fresh for weeks, but I am still looking for that really good, heavily extracted wine with pronounced fruit, acid and, if it’s a red, tannin, to get me convinced. I understand that this can’t be achieved at $5 per bottle, but hopefully this will change in the future.
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