Five Things: Flare Brick Oven Bistro, Coventry
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Sean DeBobes went off-roading this week to Flare Brick Oven Bistro, a popular spot in Coventry that signals a new upswing in restaurant activity in the area. How was the outing? Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Into the Woods
Clocking in around 30 minutes from Providence and 45 minutes from Newport, Flare is certainly off the beaten path. You would be pressed to find another table cloth-clad dining room in 10 miles. Some of the best meals in life are the ones that you pull off unexpectedly to enjoy. So I say go try what the Coventry crew already knows to be a cozy brick-oven bistro with a big bar.
Two. “Mixed” Drinks
The verdict is still out on the cocktail list. The Boston Tea Party sounded great on paper - Absolut Boston meets Myers dark rum and a splash of iced tea - but I couldn’t get into this tea tincture. I found it unbalanced and leaving a simple weak tea flavor on the palate. The house-made Flare Sangria however was exactly what I wanted. Brandy, Peachtree, triple sec and your choice of wine blended nicely to create a tart and subtly sweet beverage. Delicious.
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I admit being intrigued by the Crunchy Meatballs (Deep-Fried). Some stones are better left unturned. The meatballs themselves had a nice base flavor, but I wanted more. The overall taste of the dish was underdeveloped and really left me wanting. The Crockpot of Clams was a step in the right direction. Local clams were steamed in a white wine
and clam juice broth before being laced with chunks of capicola, sun-dried tomatoes and cannellini beans. All the ingredients were in place, but I will leave it to chef to learn a better balance. Too much capicola and you can’t taste the clams.
Four. Entrees.
With the brick oven calling, I decided main fare should come from the hearth of the restaurant. An oven-roasted chicken was a simple, but well-executed dish. The accompanying carrots were spot-on - juicy, flavorful, wonderful. The crispy-skinned chicken had me salivating when it arrived, I only wish it had a sauce (brick ovens dry out poultry in a Coventry minute). Flare aimed high with a duck confit, goat cheese and balsamic reduction pizza. In a recurring theme, I need more polish. The reduction was too sweet and overpowered the duck. I also must say for a brick-oven-place…. Flare needs to work on their crust. Reminiscent of a frozen and pre-docked shell, it left me looking for more.
Five. Dough Boy Sundae.
Yes please! This treat alone is worth the trip. An oversized steaming dough boy was topped with a heaping scoop of vanilla ice cream and a healthy dollop of whipped cream before being crowned with a drizzle of warm chocolate sauce. This is the dessert that your kids are dreaming about…. And I will be too.
Would I go back? The dough boy sundae may bring me back, but I'd like to see dinner take it up a notch.
Hit “Save”: Flare Brick Oven Bistro, 577 Tiogue Ave, Coventry, 615-8577. Lunch Tues-Sat 11am-3pm, dinner starting at 4pm. Sun dinner only. Closed Mon. No reservations needed.
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