Five Things: Cafe Noir, Providence

Five Things: Cafe Noir, Providence

When Sean DeBobes had a hankering for some cozy bistro food on a cold night, it was time to check in at Cafe Noir, the popular South Main Street spot, to see if the cuisine was holidng up. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. You Tart.

Noir has always been known for its tarts. So who am I to skip on a perpetual favorite? I decided to bookend my meal with a savory tart to start and a sweet one for dessert. Let’s start at the very beginning. The warm tart with chevre, bacon, onion and fig spread was incredibly rich. The sweet fig spread cut through the richness of the chevre to provide a well rounded bite. Like many things on the menu, this tart plays it a bit safe. Nicely executed but won’t blow you away. For dessert I had a tarte tatin with crème fraiche ice cream. The apples were crisp and… well… tart. I did take issue with the preparation. Butter is almost always the background flavor on a tarte tatin but this rendition was just overboard. I was barely able to make out another flavor.

Two. Expert Bar.

You can ALWAYS count on John Elkhay to provide a fierce cocktail. Noir is no exception to this rule. I had a drink that could measure up dash for dash with any other fine bar in town. The Bombay Assassin was simple and straight to the point. Bombay Sapphire Gin was mixed with Islay Scotch. Add a few dashes of Peychaud’s bitters and you have a great cold weather cocktail. Balanced, only slightly bitter and a real pleasure to sip. At only eight dollars this is a top shelf cocktail that won’t break the bank.

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Three. Charcuterie Plate.

If I see a charcuterie section chances are I will be trying something. Noir only keeps three items on the menu… so why not try them all with the Plat Pour la Table - the entire trio, and a steal at $20. A duck & pork rillette had great lemon undertones with a nice garlic finish. The duck liver mousse with onion marmalade was nutty and velvety smooth. It was sweeter than I am accustomed to, but wonderful. The pièce de résistance was the pate de Campagne,  non-pretentious charcuterie that will please any palate. Don’t let the name scare you off, this subtly flavored blend had a great chunky texture and was served with an amazing and flavorful house-made whole grain mustard.

Four. Thumbs Up.

A star was born in the herb trussed pork loin. A perfectly cooked piece of meat was accompanied by a red pepper and dill spaetzle with roasted apples and baby spinach. The spaetzle was buttery, rich and delicate. I always appreciate a nicely roasted apple with my pork and these fall fruits truly delivered. All things herbaceous, all things divine.

Five. Thumbs Down.

The bouillabaisse - a weekly special - was judged… and found wanting. I really wanted to like this. There was a bounty of assorted fresh-local seafood, but the dish fell quite short. The broth was weak and uninspired. I longed for the chef to show some flavor commitment. Unfortunately served with grilled bread topped with a red pepper emulsion that broke and separated immediately, this dish left much to be desired.

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Would I go back? Yes. Overall I had a great meal. There were a few downsides to my dinner but I look forward to another cocktail and round of charcuterie at Café Noir.

Hit “Save”: Café Noir, 125 North Main St, Providence, 272-2116. Sun-Thurs 5-10pm, Fri & Sat 'til 11pm.