Five Things: Al Forno, Providence
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Can it possibly be 31 years since Johanne Killeen and George Germon launched Al Forno, and put Rhode Island on the culinary map? Indeed it has, but does the icon prevail? Sean DeBobes revisited the grande dame of hearty authentic Italian food; here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Grilled Pizza.
Grilled pizza has become a cliché, but Al Forno still reigns supreme when it comes to their iconic dish. I don't know what bit of inspiration caused George Germon to throw some pizza dough on a grill but, by God, I'm glad he did - especially tonight as I’ve waited 35 minutes for my table (alas, still a no-reservations policy). Thin, crispy and chewy, topped with San Marzano tomatoes, fontina and Pecorino Romano cheeses and extra virgin olive oil, there is nothing, really, on earth that compares. It's so simple you imagine you could make it yourself. But as a multitude of bad imitations will attest, Al Forno is still the undisputed champ. As the seasons change so do the toppings, but I find myself ever drawn to the Margarita. Simple perfection.
Two. Mad Scientists.
Chef Germon is famous for reworking ice cream makers, pizza ovens, even ice machines so that they perform to his standards and peculiarities. All of this tinkering led him to lift the grate on his home grill one night and throw his steak directly on the hardwood charcoal. A few minutes on the embers and Al Forno’s Dirty Steak was born. Served tonight with smoldering wood still attached, the Dirty Steak is a tad overdone, but is still is primal grilling at its best and it speaks to that inner carnivore in me. Similarly, the re-wiring of the ice cream machines in Al Forno’s kitchens allowed them to prepare ice cream churned to order. Today that's a standard operation for a fine restaurant.
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Chefs George and Johanne leave the daily operation of their beloved restaurant in the capable hands of Chef David Reynoso, who is deft with the restaurant’s classics. The baked pasta is my go-to pasta dish in
Providence. Small shells are tossed with tomatoes, cream and 5 cheeses and baked at super-high heat in a shallow terracotta dish until golden brown, cheesy, creamy and rich. The roasted hot Italian sausage with grapes and balsamic reduction is simple, too: grapes, spicy sausage and sour vinegar all roast together to form something the Italians call agro dolce. Served over creamy mashed potatoes it is elegant comfort food… though my potatoes were a bit tepid and I do wish there were more grapes.
Four. The Courtyard.
Even in winter when it isn’t being used, a walk through the courtyard at Al Forno is such a delight. Three seasons out of the year, step out of the parking lot and through the heavy gate and you might as well be in an Italian or French vineyard or some other such charming place. A lovely patio is shaded by a canopy of grape vines, and there are intimate tables and a full outdoor bar. It is outdoor dining at its best. I’ll never again pull up a chair outside on Atwells Avenue or anywhere else RIPTA bus fumes can co-mingle with the steam coming off my cappuccino. How I’m looking forward to eating here in the warm weather.
Five. Made-To-Order Desserts.
Restaurant marketing types will tell you that making diners “pre-order” their desserts when they first sit down is a ploy to increase dessert sales by 50 or 75 percent. And it works. But at Al Forno they do it because they really do want tart dough to be fresh as can be. This works well for our apple tart - we know it hasn’t been sitting around because the dough isn’t a bit soggy. It’s harder to tell with the Cookie Finale - freshly baked cookies are served alongside hand churned ice cream. The ice cream is delicious, but the cookies spent a little too long in the oven. Back to that amazing tart I go - thankfully it was made for two to share.
Would I go back? I shall, over and over. A flawless bloom can’t stay on a rose forever, but this flower smells almost as sweet as ever.
Hit "Save": Al Forno, 577 South Main St, Providence, 273-9760. Open Tues-Fri 5-10pm, Sat 4-10pm, closed Sun-Mon.
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