RI Restaurant That Garnered National Attention Is Closing
Friday, February 09, 2024
A Rhode Island restaurant that won attention locally and nationally is closing.
Hunky Dory, located on Market Street in Warren, made the announcement on social media on Thursday.
It opened in 2021, and described itself as a “southern-influenced celebration of New England,” known for its fried chicken, biscuits, and pimento cheese.
GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLASTLast fall, it was featured in the New York Times in “Country Roads, Coastal Views, and Autumn’s Bounty in Rhode Island:”
Christine Chitnis for the Times wrote:
Hunky Dory in Warren encapsulates the region’s field-to-fork, ocean-to-plate sensibility. Sam Duling, chef and co-owner, regularly visits a roster of farms and purveyors to decide what best captures the seasonal moment.
“Sam is one of the only chefs that comes into the shop to check out our catch instead of just relying on deliveries,” Mr. Andrade said. The result is a menu that emphasizes seasonal produce and protein: Hand-rolled cavatelli served with vegetables and ricotta. Fresh black sea bass grilled and glazed with a preserved-strawberry barbecue sauce. Crispy biscuit fritters served with a spicy honey drizzle.
“I grew up with a Southern mother and grandmother, so my roots are Lowcountry cuisine and Appalachian cooking, the kind of food that relies on what’s in season,” said Mr. Duling, 37. When he arrived in Rhode Island, the abundance of farmers and purveyors made him feel at home. And starting a restaurant in the pandemic — Hunky Dory opened in May 2021 — gave him an even greater appreciation for the community. “In order for restaurants and farms to survive, we need to do it together,” Mr. Duling said.
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