Five Things: Mumu Cuisine, Providence
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Battles carry on in Rhode Island over where the best Chinese is located, and one of the state's highest-touted spots is Mumu Cuisine on Federal Hill. Even New Yorkers, who barely give credit to any local restaurant, love Mumu. How lovable was it? Sean DeBobes valet parked on Atwells and checked it out. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Just One Drink.
In my day I have had many a scorpion bowl, a classic bit of fun at an Asian restaurant. Mumu's version, redolent of coconut and bursting with tropical accent, was a delicious contender for best ever. Be wary though: this punch (a great deal for two at $16.99) packs one as well, especially when you consider that instead of serving in some space-wasting volcano contraption, MuMu serves its scorpion bowl in a heavy, clear fishbowl. Share with a friend, get a ride home, but please enjoy this great find.
Two. Squid.
Tempura-battered, fried and dusted generously with salt and black pepper, the fried squid at MuMu contends with any restaurant on Atwells for best calamari (and with no vinegar or marinara in sight). The squid had a great bite to it, but not at all rubbery, and the seasoning just brought out the freshness of this surprising standout.
GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLASTThree. Lamb.
That’s right folks, lamb at a Chinese restaurant. Seldom does lamb grace the menu of an average Chinese restaurant, but MuMu is not your average Chinese restaurant. By far my favorite bite of the night, this lamb was
intensely flavored with just the right amount of cumin and a spicy black bean sauce. Tongue-tingling delight.
Four. Fresh Food, Pleasant Surprises.
Throughout my evening I could not help but remark on how fresh all the ingredients were. Had the chef just gone personally shopping moments before we got there? It tasted that way. Equally pleasing were the subtle surprises throughout the meal, such as a tart vinegar accent in the cabbage in my perfectly crunchy spring roll. An appetizer that's often tossed off by lesser Chinese restaurants, this classic sings at MuMu.
Five. Service.
I could not have been happier with the service at Mumu. My waiter, extremely friendly and knowledgeable, led a team that worked and flowed like a well-oiled machine. My only complaint is that my wonderful waiter had to return three times in one night to regretfully inform me that something I'd ordered wasn't available. The upside was that he offered great substitutions, so this time it's forgiven.
Would I go back? Yes, and the next time you are pondering dinner on Atwells, go for a change of pace and stop in at MuMu.
Hit “Save”: MuMu, 220 Atwells Ave, Providence, 369-7040. M-Th 11:30a-10p, Fri & Sat 11:30a-11p, Sun 12:30p-10p. Reservations suggested on weekends.
Related Articles
- Five Things: Tini, Providence
- Five Things: DeWolf Tavern, Bristol
- Five Things: La Laiterie, Providence
- Five Things: Loie Fuller’s, Providence
- Five Things: New Rivers, Providence
- Five Things: Pietra, Little Compton
- Five Things: The Best of the Best
