Five Things: CAV, Providence
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
CAV, a longstanding favorite of many locals, got its start on the Providence scene decades ago as a bohemian coffee and antiques hangout in the Jewelry District. Recently, though, word's been spreading that the dining there was top-notch. Sean DeBobes stopped by to take a taste. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Morocco or Narnia?
Either way the décor is enchanting. Beautiful Kilims adorn each table, unique sculptures gaze at you from all angles, and twinkling lights hang from... well... everywhere. Some items certainly lean towards the heavily quirky, but it works. The sheer agglomeration that many would fail at, CAV excels in.
Two. No Local!
Check your food trends at the door. CAV seems to be following a drummer that I’ve not heard for several years in Providence. This restaurant reminds me of being in the home of an exquisite, eccentric chef. With throwbacks like the tasty walnut-encrusted brie with brandied sundried apricots, diners will be sure to find an old favorite from a cocktail party of yesteryear.
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Yes, please. This spiced-up aioli, the accompaniment to an excellent crabcake, was the taste of the night. CAV perfectly balanced the pleasant heat of hot chilies with a
great sweetness and tang in their untraditional-traditional sauce. On top, great chunks of crab were embraced by a coating of crushed pistachios. Crispy and perfect!
Four. Carnivores welcome.
Love for meat-lovers. An intensely flavored duck confit with Grand Marnier demi-glace was sweet and citrusy, drizzled with a blood orange reduction that pursed my lips. Served atop a peak of mashed sweet potatoes with brandied caramelized onion, this rich/tangy dish was certainly a potent version of the classic! For a taste of something even heartier, the braised lamb shank with butternut squash custard and Israeli couscous was fall-off-the-bone delicious.
Five. Vegetarians welcome.
The vegetarian offerings were superb. A simple yet perfectly executed ravioli led the way. Stuffed with caramelized Vidalia onions and studded with pistachio pesto, it was a perfect dish for the table. A risotto arrived deconstructed and delicious, with a mound of creamy/fluffy rice surrounded by an earthy mushroom jus and a whisper of truffle oil.
Would I go back? Yes. Three hours was not enough to take in all the decor as well as the wonderful items on the menu.
Hit “Save:” CAV, 14 Imperial Place, Providence, 751-9164. Reservations recommended. Complimentary parking. Open for Lunch and Dinner M-Th 11:30-10, Fri 11:30-1a, Sat 10-10, Sun 10:30-10.
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