The Cellar: Two Unusual Whites
Friday, August 12, 2016
This warm weather calls for plenty of white wine. Last week I featured a classic Californian Chardonnay. This week I will be going in the completely opposite direction – geographically, as well as stylistically. The two wines featured this week is a Muscat from Moldova, Eastern Europe and an slightly sweet Gros Manseng from Gascony, France.
Farmers in Eastern European have been growing grapes and making wine in what is now Moldova for more than 5000 years - supporting mostly the local and regional markets. Over the centuries wine has played an important role in everyday Moldovan life with production reaching an all-time high in the 15th century under the reign on Stefan the Great. Following World War II the Moldovan wine industry got sucked into the larger Soviet Union’s producing large amount of cheap quaffing wine to the millions of Soviet wine drinkers. Since independence the Moldovan wine industry has privatized with winemakers shifting focus from quantity to quality. If you want to know more about the Moldovan wine industry I strongly recommend clicking here.
Farmers grow a slew of different grape varieties on the countries 275.000 acres ranging from the familiar ones (Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) to more obscure and indigenous ones. One of the most widely planted white grape varieties is Muscat, which accounts for around 4% of all plantings. This week’s featured bottle is a drier example made by Bostavan winery. While arguably most famous for making sweeter wines in Muscat-de-Baumes-de-Venice and Moscato d’Asti, the grape can be fermented drier. If you like medium-bodied, fragrant and floral wines (think grapey) like Gewürztraminer and Torrontes, this wine is something for you – moderate amounts of acidity makes for a crisp, clean and very interesting wine.GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLAST
This week’s second white wine is from a Southwestern French region more famous for its brandy (Armagnac) than its still wines. Most of the still wines labeled under the ‘Cotes de Gascogne’ appellation are white, made from the indigenous varieties (Courbu, Colombard, Arrufiac and Gros Manseng), as well as the more commonly recognized Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Red wines are also produced – primarily from Cabernet, Tannat and Cot (the local name for Malbec).
Local producer Domaine du Tariquet produces 9 white wines and 2 roses. Their 2015 Premières Grives is made from the intensively flavored indigenous grape variety Gros Manseng, whose flavor profile boasts of melons, ripe peach and pineapple. While slightly sweet, the acidity in this wine is clearly defined and makes for perfectly balanced juice. This is a wine best enjoyed chilled on a hot day like today, or try as an aperitif, with Foie Gras or soft cheese. This is one of those wines you can’t stop drinking.
Outrageously good!
Cheers,
Steffen Rasch is a Certified Sommelier and Specialist of Wine. Learn about wine in person by signing up for one of his tastings at the Providence Wine Academy.
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