The Cellar: The Cheese Plate in Warren

Friday, June 29, 2012

Steffen Rasch, GoLocalProv Wine Critic

I have long wanted to dedicate an episode of The Cellar to wine and cheese. As most European immigrants, I have a great deal of admiration for this combination of flavors and textures and consider a perfect pairing between the two as good as any in the world of gastronomy. If you have ever traveled in Spain, Italy or France and experienced an after-meal or midday piece of Manchego, Parmigiano-Reggiano or Roquefort paired with a local wine, you will know what I am talking about. Wine and cheese pairings are often overlooked in the United States, with the two often being considered little more than ‘entertainment food’.

How delightful then to visit the newly re-opened and renovated The Cheese Plate in Warren, where I discovered (and tasted) a lot of good cheese, domestic as well as international. The Cheese Plate is owned by Joanne Everett and Mathew Vincent, of Tortilla Flats fame in Providence. Currently serving an array of high-end cheese plates, charcuterie and specialty deserts, as well as gourmet coffee, craft beer and wine, the folks at this new hot spot will soon be offering a full lunch and dinner menu as well.

The following is some of my favorite wine and cheese pairings from my visit:

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I just absolutely love the classic goat cheese and Sauvignon Blanc pairing. At The Cheese Plate they have a number of different creamy and firm goat cheeses to choose from – from mildly earthy to strong and funky. Whichever one you choose, I recommend you pair it with either the Sauvignon Blanc or the Albarino. Both of these wines have vibrant acidity which matches with that of the cheeses. These light, fresh and cool white wines will also serve as a refreshing contract in terms of temperature and texture.

Both goat cheese and Sauvignon Blanc are out there on the flavor spectrum. For something more straightforward I would recommend pairing The Cheese Plate’s rich and creamy Galician Ultra Crema with their oaky Californian Chardonnay or their rich New England 2-Year Cow’s Milk Cheddar with their robust Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon. Both are straight-forward pairings that pairs creamy with creamy and robust with robust.

If you want to try something different, I suggest nibbling on a piece of sheep’s milk Manchego while sipping a glass of Tempranillo based Rioja. At The Cheese Plate they have a young and spicy Rioja (Crianza) that goes great with their nutty Manchego.  Go out with a bang; either by going classic with a Gorgonzola and Sandeman 10 Year Port, or by going local with an awesome, locally made cheesecake paired with Sakonnet Vineyard’s sweet winter wine. While the Tawny Port accentuates the spiciness of the Gorgonzola, the sweet peaches of the winter wine acts like peach sauce on top of the cheesecake. Good stuff!

Does all this cheesy talk have you salivating? If so, jump in your car and get to Warren! The Cheese Plate is open Tuesday through Sunday and is located at 54 State St in Warren. (401) 245-3932.

Steffen Rasch CSW is ready to answer any wine-related questions, comments or concerns you may have. Feel free to email him at [email protected]. And as always, don’t forget to follow GoLocalProv’s Wine Cellar on Facebook and sign up for one of his tastings through the Providence Wine Academy.

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