video: The Cellar: Montefalco
Friday, October 28, 2016
It has been a few years since we last visited Montefalco. With more and more of its wines locally available I thought it was time for another in-depth look at its famous Sagrantino, as well as its regional white companion. I continue to believe that the wines of Montefalco are among Italy's best kept secrets.
Montefalco is located in the picturesque region of Umbria approximately 2 hours north of Rome. The area was recognized for its viticulture early on. It was awarded DOC status in 1979 with its star red grape, Sagrantino, being awarded the highest classification (DOCG) in 1991. As I noted in a previous article, despite the early recognition Sagrantino di Montefalco never really captured the international wine drinking audience as has the other Italian big boys Amarone, Brunello and Barolo.
On the reasons for this is the wines scarcity. The Sagrantino grape is only grown (commercially) in and the around the village of Montefalco. At last count there were less than 50 produces growing less than 400 acres of Sagrantino vines. With more than 2 mio. acres under vine that’s less than .02% of Italy’s total acreage. Another reason the average wine drinker probably haven’t heard of this wine is because of its often hefty pricetag. According to the strict rules of this DOCG the wine must age for a minimum of 2 years prior to being released, of which 12 months must be in oak. Time is money in the wine business so all this aging, along with the scarcity, often boosts the price of Sagrantino di Montefalco into the $40-$60 range. That said, there are some bottles out there that sell for significantly less.
GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLASTThis week's featured example is the 2010 Sagrantino di Montefalco made by Perticaia. I have attached a video from the estate that features the people behind the wine; quite the family affair as you can see. This 100% Sagrantino wine underwent a long maceration (skin contact) before fermentation. The wine has aged for 3 years at the winery, one year each in oak, steel and bottle. The resulting wine is a massively structured, densely flavored and delicious wine. Ripe black fruit dominate the palate with hints of sweet oak and savory undergrowth. The firm tannins are well-integrated. Really good!
Besides from the Sagrantino and a 'Montefalco Rosso' DOC wine, which must be made from at least 70% Sangiovese (often blended with Sagrantino) winemakers in the region also produces a white DOC wine. 'Montefalco Bianco' is the region's flagship white; a wine that must be made from at least 50% Grechetto with between 25% and 35% Trebbiano. This week's featured example is the 2015 Nido Del Falco Montefalco Bianco from Broccatelli Galli. This wine is made from the two mandatory grapes with Chardonnay to round up the blend.
The wine is aged in stainless steel only – no oak, so it is very expressive with the Grechetto's rich body, nuttiness and floral aromatics defining the wine. Slightly herbal with stone fruits from the Chardonnay is complimented by a tartness on finish provided by the Trebbiano. A delicious wine for around $15.
Cheers,
Steffen Rasch is a Certified Sommelier and Specialist of Wine. Learn about wine in person by signing up for one of his tastings at the Providence Wine Academy.
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