The Cellar: Taste-Test Winners Over Expensive Bottles
Friday, February 04, 2011
Every year the Fearless Critic releases The Wine Trials, a review of various wines conducted by a panel of wine experts who swirls, smells, sips, and spits their way through more than 500 wines to determine the vintage’s 175 best values under $15. The concept is that the wines are tasted against much more expensive bottles in brown-bag blind tastings. The result is amazing at times. (For instance, J.P. Chenet, a $12 French sparkling blend beat out Champagne’s $150 Dom Pérignon.) Although I firmly believe that every palate is different, I love trying inexpensive wines that ‘experts’ have loved while having tasted them blind. I thought it would be fun to taste some of the wines myself. Here are three great picks.
Old-world flavor at an unbelievable price: 2008 Bogle Pinot Noir
The backstory: The Bogle brand, and its iconic label, is one of those I am sure you are familiar with. They have been around for a while and the winery consistently makes good value wine. Believe it or not, there is an actual Bogle family who owns and operates the winery to this day. In fact, the current president, Warren Bogle, is the 6th generation of Bogle to preside over the winery, which is tucked into the Sacramento Delta among 1.000 acres of vineyard, which sits along side of Elk Slough in Clarksburg, California.
The wine: I purchased a couple of the Californian Pinot Noirs reviewed in the book and tasted them blind. My favorite was the 2008 Bogle Pinot Noir. Interestingly it stood out for not being overly Californian. The winery sources some of their grapes from the much cooler Russian River Valley, which results in much more bright, almost acidic, berry flavors, as well as ads an herbaceous character. In my opinion a much more authentic, old-world-like Pinot Noir with hints of being Burgundian like. The mix of ripe Californian fruit gives it a smooth mouth feel and a long finish. A great Pinot Noir for only around $11.
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Fresh and fruity: 2008 Polka Dot Riesling
The backstory: Those of you that are regular readers of my reviews will have noticed that I have a special place in my heart for Rieslings, German Rieslings especially. So when I noticed that the Polka Dot had received good reviews, I figured I would give it a taste. There are a couple of noteworthy regions in Germany that are famous for producing great Rieslings, among them the Pfaltz. The Pfaltz winegrowing region is home to Germany’s oldest wine road, where a progressive group of younger winemakers is re-interpreting traditional German wines.
The wine: The 2008 Polka Dot Riesling does not live up to what I have come to expect from my recent German Riesling tastings, but considering its reasonable $10-$15 price point I still recommend you try it. While it has all the components of a good Riesling, freshness, hints of both tropical fruit and lime, as well as a dose of minerality, it doesn’t quite have the racing and crispy acidity I feel is necessary to balance its sweetness. That being said, it is still a better value than most Californian and New York State Rieslings. Try it chilled and with your favorite spicy food.
Super value at $10: 2009 Alamos Malbec
The backstory: Originally a common blending grape in Bordeaux, these days Malbec has lost its popularity in France and is now only planted in significant quantities in Cahors. Fortunately, the grape has found other places to flourish, primarily in Argentina where it has been adopted as the country's national grape. Optimal growing conditions and low production costs have contributed to a recent explosion in the popularity of this varietal in the United States. Americans seem to love these wines that, when they are best, show reminiscent of blackberries, chocolate and spice, often with a soft velvety texture.
The wine: Alamos is one of those brands that have been good at capitalizing on the increase in Malbec’s popularity. Their $10 entry-level Malbec continues to achieve high ratings and is the one featured this week. It is a great example of what a well made, everyday Argentinean Malbec tastes like. It is full-bodied and shows nice sweet dark fruits and spice on the palate. A simple yet well-balanced wine that should go with most red meats.
Enjoy!
Besides from writing about wine Steffen Rasch also consults, hosts lessons, tastings and other types of wine events privately, as well as for businesses. If you are interested in knowing more please visit www.Amazing-Grape.com, and follow him on Facebook, here.
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