RI’s Best Mac and Cheese
Thursday, January 26, 2012
Every winter we love doing a mac and cheese tour de Rhode Island. Everything about the warmth of the pasta and the bubbly cheese makes us all happy inside. The past several years have seen a number of the state’s best chefs taking this humble dish to new heights and we set out to find our favorites. Check out these 5 outrageous restaurant versions of everyone’s childhood favorite.
Thee Red Fez, Providence
We’re old. We’re scared by hipsters. We don’t own skinny jeans. We do, however, love creative food, made with local ingredients. We love places in Providence that are affordable. So we put it all together, took a deep breath and entered Thee Red Fez. It was one of our best decisions in a long time. The talented kitchen staff makes just about everything from scratch while coming up with interesting flavor profiles. We went in to try the mac and cheese and were blown away by the version with house made churico. CHURICO??? The spiciness of the house made sausage added a nice zing to the rest of the goodness going on here. Words like crunchy and gooey and addictive come to mind. The little bit of oil you get from the churico really makes this a cut above. So do yourself a favor and stop in and let the young, talented team show you how it’s done. 49 Peck St. 272-1212
La Laiterie, Providence
This is really almost unfair. One of the region’s best restaurants is connected to one of the best cheese shops? Well, of course they have a good mac and cheese. Well, that’s one way to look at it but imagine the pressure of being one of the best cheese shops around and the expectations that come with the words “cheese monger’s mac and cheese.” Thankfully the talented crew at Farmstead and La Laiterie is all about meeting lofty expectations. The idea is simple: never compromise on ingredients and techniques and the end product will reflect that effort. The results are delicious even in a humble dish like mac and cheese. They take all the leftover cheese from the shop and incorporate it in the restaurant’s tasty version. Baked until its bubbling and liquid on the inside, this is a sophisticated version of the classic. All of those carefully sourced, artisanal cheeses that Farmstead is famous for melt together to form the cheesiest version around. 184 Wayland Ave. 274-7177, www.farmsteadinc.com
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Death, taxes and the “sides” at Mill’s Tavern…all things you can count on. Almost since day one, people have loved Mill’s Tavern. In 2008, Hollywood came calling and used the beautiful dining room as a background for "27 Dresses," starring Katherine Heigl. Well, whether or not you’re Hollywood royalty, you will be treated as such at Mill’s. We love the stuff from the wood fired oven-especially the veal breast with spaetzle-and the rotisserie. Some of the signature dishes at Mill’s are the legendary sides that we have been getting since day one. We dream about the red bliss mashed potatoes with crispy shallots, the wood roasted asparagus with lemon and olive oil and, of course, the mac and cheese. The current incarnation features delicious, house cured bacon. The smokiness of the bacon is reinforced by the wood burning oven and the high heat creates a nice crust. 101 North Main St. 272-3331, www.millstavernrestaurant.com
The Canfield House, Newport
The Canfield House is one of those places that gets lost in the hustle and bustle of the summer in Newport. Tourists don’t often stray from the waterfront but their loss is our gain. Owner Maggie Wiggins has taken this turn-of-the-century casino turned restaurant and has made it one of our favorite off-the-beaten-path restaurants in Newport. Richard Canfield imagined his invitation only casino a place for good food and drink and a good time. Fast forward about 150 years and Maggie and chef Brian Garrabrant continue that tradition today with the Canfield House lobster mac and cheese. Did you expect anything else from the city by the sea? Chef Garrabrant takes the freshest local lobster and steams it lightly and tosses it with curly, campanelle pasta and a sauce accented by brie, champagne and dill havarti cheese. A deft touch is used with a little bacon, so it doesn’t overpower the delicate lobster -- an addition we are all in favor of! The dill adds a little lemony brightness that was unexpected. There is a lot to love here other than the mac and cheese, especially the root beer braised short ribs but we always go back to this dish. 5 Memorial Blvd. 847-0416, www.canfieldhousenewport.com
Luxe Burger Bar, Providence
One thing you can say about the Chow Fun Food Group is that they’re always trying to stay ahead of the curve when it comes to culinary trends. You can currently enjoy Chow Fun concepts in Providence featuring: sushi, sliders, prime steaks, gourmet burgers, BBQ and French bistro food. Luxe Burger Bar is located in the heart of downtown and features an array of clever burgers that run the gamut from cool to crazy. We love the “build your own” burgers and have even (almost) made it through a Fatty Melt, which is served with grilled cheese as the bun. The “build your own” concept carries over to the mac and cheese to great results. Sure you could get the plain mac and cheese, but imagine mac and cheese with hickory smoked bacon and pulled pork. Or pastrami. Or grilled chicken and broccoli. You can choose up to three ingredients to mix in like the cheesiest Coldstone Creamery you’ve ever been to. Luxe also features a great beer selection to wash down all that cheesiness. 5 Memorial Blvd. 621-5893, www.luxeburgerbar.com
