Rhode Island’s Cult Restaurants
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Like fans of Trader Vic’s in Los Angeles or Nick and Toni’s in the Hamptons, Rhode Islanders have their love affair with certain decades-old restaurants. They may not be the hippest or feature farm-to-table trends, but they maintain cult-like followings with long waits and undying loyalty. Here are our picks for the Ocean State’s top cult favorites.
Twin Oaks, Cranston
The grand daddy of ‘em all. Open since 1933, you’d be hard-pressed to find a Rhode Islander who hasn’t celebrated something here – a birthday, anniversary, graduation. Some say you can tell your social status in Rhode Island by how quickly the guardian-like maitre’d waves you past the waiting masses (sometimes the wait is two hours on a Saturday night). And in the past rumor had it that if you were willing to slip an Andrew Jackson into his palm, things would move faster. But we do what we have to do for massive portions of old-school prime rib, legendary baked-stuffed shrimp, chicken parm, milk-fed veal, killer calamari, and generous-pour cocktails. The wood-paneled walls scream late 1970s, and the all-male wait staff suggest the Mad Men era. But we love us our Twin Oaks. 100 Sabra St, 781-6677, www.twinoaksrest.com
The Lobster Pot, Bristol
You might think it is the stunning bay views that have kept people coming back to this East Bay institution since 1929. But there are plenty of other places with similar views, so we chalk up Ocean Staters’ loyalty to The Lobster Pot’s classic New England seafood menu. Clams Casino, Oysters Rockefeller, escargot, sherry-laced lobster bisque, broiled fish, all served in a dining room with windows all around. The restaurant is as much a neighborhood spot as it is a destination restaurant, so on any given Friday the bar will fill with friendly boaters coming in from a day on the bay, while Saturdays and Sundays tend to attract day-trippers from other parts of the state. No matter the crowd, everyone seems delighted, even on rainy or wintery days. It’s that great a place. 119 Hope St, 253-9100, www.lobsterpotri.com
GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLASTTweet Balzano’s, Bristol
Oh, those lucky Bristol residents.
Two of Rhode Islander’s cult restaurants are owned by this seaside town! For 65 years Tweet’s has served hungry Rhode Islanders legendary-sized portions of pasta (you gotta have it with clam sauce), fish and chips, chicken parm, fried scallops – you name it. The inside is nothing special, and the service can feel a little rushed, but when bowls full of steamed clams and pounds of pasta are set on the table, it’s smiles and “Ooh!”s all around. Lucky for us the prices aren’t as big as the portions, which is part of what has kept families in-the-know coming back here for decades. 180 Mount Hope Ave, 253-9811.Wright’s Farm, Burrillville
Okay, so there’s a system to dining at this 1,200-seat northern Rhode Island landmark. Don’t think you’ll just come in and order all willy-nilly. Dinner here is served family-style in one of many banquet-style dining rooms. That means heaping bowls and lots of passing. Dinner at Wright’s starts with freshly-made rolls and iceberg lettuce salad topped with dressing that you can buy in the restaurant’s gift shop or off the shelves at your local supermarket. Then it’s on to the house-made French fries (made right – hand-cut and cooked twice, the way they should be), macaroni (hey, it’s macaroni, not pasta!) with red sauce (you can buy that, too), and finally – tender, juicy chicken. Overwhelmed? Of course—that’s why we return! 84 Inman Rd, 769-2856, www.wrightsfarm.com
The Governor Francis Inn, Warwick
Years ago, a hip local celebrity told us he was taking us to dinner at his favorite Rhode Island restaurant. He went on and on about the impressive menu, big portions and his particular weakness—their lobster bisque.
Imagine our surprise when we pulled up to the non-descript building on a busy section of Warwick Avenue. We’d never been to the Governor Francis Inn, but the two dozen people waiting outside for seats, and the crowd inside, indicated we were the minority. Now it seems every time we drive past the parking lot is packed. We’ve returned, too, for lobster rolls and bisque, and a classic Sunday turkey dinner with all the fixings for less than $10. 1251 Warwick Ave, 463-8227, www.governorfrancisinn.com