Rhode Island’s Best Fries

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Thursday, October 20, 2011

By Ann and Michael Martini, GoLocalProv Food Editors

Julia Child once called the humble French fry her favorite potato preparation. Crispy on the outside, steamed and fluffy on the inside, they are perfection…but they’re not so easy to make. Good restaurant fries are cut from fresh potatoes and have to be fried twice, and they are always seasoned with salt when they are still hot. Frozen just won’t do! When the jones for expertly-made fries hits us, here are a few of the places we seek out.

1. Red Stripe, Providence

There’s a lot of things that go into making good fries…type of potato used, oil for frying, seasoning the fries right when they come out of the oil (so the seasoning sticks), and Red Stripe gets them all right. These fries are the most consistent fries around and really isn’t that part of it? Being able to return again and again to enjoy the same experience? These fries are always crispy, never greasy and always well seasoned with salt and pepper. The menu features several ways to enjoy these beauties…with grilled steak on steak frites; with freshly caught mussels on moules frites. But our favorite is just as is with the house aioli. 465 Angell St. 437-6950, www.redstriperestaurants.com

2. The Dorrance, Providence

The Dorrance has burst on the Providence dining scene with a killer combo of food and drinks as good as any we’ve tried in the city. Talented young chef Ben Sukle’s food is crave-worthy, and mixologist Jesse Hedberg’s cocktails are as complex and layered as any plate of food. The frites served with this steak frites are the shoestring variety…and the extraordinarily delicious variety. Crisp and well seasoned, these fries have what it takes to be great: consistently sized fries (so they all cook in the same time) that are never greasy and served piping hot (not easy with shoestrings). These fries have been exactly the same every time we’ve tried them—also an impressive feat. Dare we say these fries are a fabulous as the surroundings they are served in. 60 Dorrance St. 521-6000.

3. Pour Judgement, Newport

We first went to Pour Judgement after a friend raved about the beer selection at this cool, local hangout. On the night we walked in, we were given a “specials” menu that featured a special of gnocchi with truffle oil and shaved parmesan. Huh? In a little neighborhood bar? Well, the local sitting at the bar raved about the food and said we had to try the fries. We did as instructed and are we glad we did! Perfect little slices of potato are fried until crisp and dusted with salt and pepper. The little bit of skin left on the potatoes provides a texture difference from the rest of the fry. Pour Judgement features a very cool way to try these fries…they do a burger and beer special every day that features their fresh ground beef burger, the incredible hand-cut fries and one of up to 50 beers on the menu starting at $7.50…in Newport…all year round! 32 Broadway, 619-2115, www.pourjudgement.com

4. The Beef Barn, North Smithfield

A local “top chef” tweeted his joy at finding the Beef Barn this summer. And that’s the way it is for most people who discover this hidden gem of beefy goodness. At first we were drawn to the big red silo and the huge cow on the sign. And the name? Come on, it’s perfect. But we return for the fries…and the roast beef. This place is totally old-school, in the best possible sense, with wood tables and seats, plastic plates and cups. It’s low on amenities but high on flavor. The fries are classic also. With minimal fuss, they produce delicious little baskets of fried goodness that have kept us coming back for more than 20 years. Oh yeah, the roast beef sandwich with barbeque sauce is pretty good too. 4 Greenville Rd. 762-9880, www.thebeefbarn.com
 

5. The Waterman Grille, Providence

One of the toughest types of fries to cook is the steak fry.

The size of the potato wedge makes it difficult to get the inside cooked enough before the outside burns. But, have no fear, the Waterman Grille has figured them out. At the Grille, they specialize in wood-grilled foods that are well seasoned and fresh and that same care goes into the French fries and we are grateful for it! We have a running battle in our life about steak fries…one of us hates them (too potato-y, she says!) but she always enjoys them here. The extra skin on the wedge-style cut provides a lot of hiding places for the sea salt and pepper. And the inside is cooked through so you don’t end up with inedible chunks of uncooked potatoes to spoil the experience. All in all, these are wonderful examples of French fries regardless of size. 4 Richmond Sq. 521-9229, www.watermangrille.com

 

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