Rhode Island’s Best Calamari
Thursday, March 07, 2013
A recent piece of food legislation has created quite a little dust up in our passionate food community. Representative Joe McNamara introduced a bill to make calamari the official state appetizer of Rhode Island. People complained that a group should decide what represents R.I., not just one man or a legislative body. Well, we figured we would jump into the fray...we think McNamara hit it right on the head! Seven million pounds of squid were caught in local waters in 2011 and we can't think of another dish that has "Rhode Island Style" stamped on it from coast to coast. Yes we love jonny cakes. Yes we love clam cakes. Yes we love quahogs. But why run from your history? Calamari it is. We set out to find 5 examples of this Rhody classic and came back with these...
Edgewood Cafe, Cranston
We found a new favorite since we last wrote about calamari. A venture to our neighborhood joint, the Edgewood Cafe, found usloving their take on this appetizer. We've all had tough, rubbery poorly prepared squid. It's awful. This calamari, however, is perfectly fried. It's crisp but not greasy and never takes a lot of effort to chew. The rings are tossed with sliced pear tomatoes, julienned sun-dried tomatoes, fresh basil and balsamic vinegar. All these Italian flavors come together in your mouth to make a delicious dish. We love a lot about Edgewood Cafe. The burgers are fresh and tasty and the daily specials are always interesting. The other cool thing about the cafe is the BYOB policy. It's fun to be your own sommelier and pick something out on the way and then plan your meal around the wine. Whatever you do, start with the calamari! 1864 Broad St. 383-5550, www.edgewoodcafe.com
Hemenway's, Providence
One of the capital city's grand dames, Hemenway's has been on the Providence restaurant scene longer than there has been a scene. And since day one, seafood was the name of the game. That's the way the restaurant's namesake, Charles Hemenway, would've wanted it. He owned one of our country's first and finest seafood restaurants, the Flying Lobster. Today the theme of fresh and local seafood is carried out by the able team from Newport Restaurant Group. Chef Steve Long and his kitchen staff are complemented by the front of house crew of Tobey, Dean and company to provide the food and service worthy of this eatery. The calamari is a near perfect version. The rings are small and crisp. The sauce has the balance between the acid and the butter. It all works perfectly. And come on...you have to love the faith Hemenway's showed Providence all those years ago. 121 South Main St. 351-8570, www.hemenwaysrestaurant.com
GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLASTTwin Oaks, Cranston
Rhode Islanders have long turned to this iconic restaurant for Old School takes on classics. This might be the dish you think of when traditional Rhode Island calamari comes to mind. On a recent visit we found that chef Bill Smith's team was once again cranking out some mighty good calamari. This is the classic combo of flavors: garlic, butter and a vinegary kick from banana peppers. The Oaks serves this sauce on the side for dipping as they have long held that crispiness trumps all. We often toss it ourselves--don't tell 'em--at the table. The squid is thin and crispy and the sauce is among the best we've ever had. We're happy to be able to put this one on this list this year. 100 Sabra St. 781-9693, www.twinoaksrest.com
Parkside Rotisserie, Providence
This one is a hold over from our previous list and was the one that held up the best to our past notes. There is a lot to love at Parkside. We can't seem to get past the bar. Come to think of, we've never sat in the dining room. When we found out that the calamari had been on the menu from day one, we dove right in and fell in love. Sweet and sour corn and a pepper puree are not common with calamari in these parts but trust us...this is the perfect accompaniment here. Nice, lightly fried rings are served along with these flavorful sides. Dip 'em at will and watch as the ice and snow melt away to warm flavors that accent the calamari perfectly. You can feel free to move on the the tender and juicy rotisserie going on here if you like. Or just enjoy the calamari and a cocktail! 76 South Main St. 331-0003, www.parksideprovidence.com
The Candy Store at Clarke Cooke House
One of the "sneaky cool" spots in all of Rhode Island is the Candy Store at Clarke Cooke House. This Bannister's Wharf gem has been the hub of Newport's waterfront since the 1700's. Today it sports a culinary legacy that includes being an incubator for, perhaps, America's most revered chef, Thomas Keller. We love it at night for drinks and apps and music. This cool spot has been home to America's Cup participants as well as well-heeled Newport veterans looking for good food and amazing views. The calamari here is a slightly different version with lemon and parsley tossed with capers, which provide the balance that vinegar peppers often bring to others. It's a little more elegant. Like Newport itself. Bannister's Wharf, 849-2900, www.bannistersnewport.com
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