slides: Rhode Island’s 5 Most Delicious Fish Dishes

Thursday, July 17, 2014

 

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We would be remiss if we lived in the Ocean State and didn’t include a “Best Fish Dish” piece in our summer series. Our little state has, recently, emerged as a national leader in seafood use and protection. The group Trace and Trust helped organize a movement of chefs and fishermen who were tired of the overfishing of a few species and the neglect of the rest. And they taught us that “trash fish” could be beautiful, and even tasty! Trace and Trust is such a hit that they’ve expanded to other types of food and other states. Thanks in part to them and some of the great, conscientious chefs we have here; today we find more species of fish on local menus than ever before. We set out to find 5 places for you to get your fish on.

 

Related Slideshow: Rhode Island’s 5 Most Delicious Fish Dishes

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Jamestown Fish, Jamestown

Chef Matthew MacCartney was a peoples’ choice nominee for Food & Wine magazine’s best new chef award. And with good reason. He’s adept with technique and creative with flavors, even the often-delicate ones that come when working with fish. We love the Jamestown Fish Cookpot, the signature dish that’s an ode to local seafood but has a subtle European spin. Think a clambake influenced by Spanish paella . It features half a lobster, clams, mussels, scallops and scrod, boiled with tomatoes, saffron, Pernod, potatoes and chorizo. It familiar and delicious, and yet the saffron and Pernod give you a classic paella flavor, too. 14 Narragansett Ave 423-3474, http://www.jamestownfishri.com

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Gracie’s, Providence

We’ve long trusted Gracie’s for expert preparations of modern America dishes and ingredients as they rarely disappoint. When it comes to a notable fish dish, the same holds true. East Coast meets West Coast with Chef Matt Varga’s crudo of Rhode Island fluke is a favorite of ours. Varga’s raw treatment is brilliant – quite literally, when it comes to the bright flavors. Local fluke is one of our sweetest and tastiest fishes, and here Varga adds tomato, avocado, jalapeno, coriander for a decidedly California treatment. The texture is creamy and crunchy and the flavors are sweet and hot in a dish that’s epitome of being well balanced. 194 Washington St, 272-7811, Gracie’s:: Finest Dining Experience:: Providence

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Stoneacre Pantry, Newport

Executive Chef David Sturgeon has been making waves (pardon the pun) at his new eatery on Thames Street. Locals are talking him up for his creative take on local goodies, and we’re particularly tickled by his local hake with carrot puree, fiddlehead ferns and baby turnips. There’s a lot to like here. Hake is a light white fish with a delicate flavor, much like cod, but lots more plentiful than the over-fished cod. So that’s good. But what’s better is his take on it here. It’s almost a play on surf and turf  --  ocean fish with earthy vegetables. Very creative, and very subtle and tasty. 515 Thames St, 619-7810, http://www.stoneacrepantry.com

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Ella’s, Westerly

Ella’s is all the rage in Rhode Island right now, even up in “the city,” where we’re hard-pressed to take day trips to eat. The reason is Chef Jeanie Roland, educated at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America.  Roland’s signature combo of Asian and French flavors executed with local produce, dairy and seafood, and certified all-natural and organic meat is delightful, creative and refreshing. Here we like her lobster phở, a colorful take on our favorite crustacean made from local lobster, house-made rice noodles, lobster broth, cilantro, green onions and Thai basil. The flavors are sweet and bright and gorgeous. 2 Tower St, 315-0606, http://www.ellasfinefoodanddrink.com

Photo courtesy of Bao D. (Yelp)

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Boat House, Tiverton

With so many great restaurants under its purview, it’s hard to say that Newport Restaurant Group has a “darling.” But the Boat House is often ours. Ideally located on the Sakonnet with beautiful views and a breezy interior, it features lots of “Ooh, I want to try that!” menu options. We’re huge fans of the cornmeal crusted fried oysters with sun choke puree, piquillo pepper coulis and pickled red onions. The richness of the oysters is highlighted by the sweet crunch of cornmeal, than offset by the tangy flavors of the onions and peppers. The sun choke puree is nutty and savory base that tastes akin to artichoke hearts and best mashed potatoes you’ve ever had. 227 Schooner Dr, 624-6300, http://www.boathousetiverton.com

Photo courtesy of Kel S. (Yelp)

 
 

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