Newport’s Hot New Taqueria: El Perrito

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Wednesday, May 09, 2012

Sean DeBobes, GoLocalProv Dining Critic

Any Rhode Islander who loves fresh and authentic Mexican food already knows about Perro Salado on Charles Street. Lucky for Perro’s fans, the support has been overwhelming and the owners have opened a Taqueria, El Perrito, on Thames. This very casual counter-service locale feels like a cross between a general store and a cantina. What comes out of the kitchen however, is pure culinary. Coupled with very reasonable prices and a BYOB policy, El Perrito is a great stop for Newport diners.

Try the Fries

E.P. sure knows how to start a party with their interesting take on the fry. The avocado fry, a panko crusted avocado chunk, is flash fried. The result, a crispy outside with an instant melt-in-your-mouth inside. This dish is served with a chipotle mayo to give just a little smoke and heat. If you prefer to stay closer to fries involving tuber ‘roots’, then order the Yuca Fries. These oversized slices are almost startlingly fluffy inside and when dipped in the herbaceous and flavorful chimichurri sauce, this is a can’t-miss antojitos.

Tacos

The fries might be mighty fine, but you can’t go to a taqueria without trying the tacos. E.P. has all the bases covered. Seven tacos on the menu and daily specials mean you’ll never have to look far for a new favorite.  Every taco I tried was delicious (and I tried plenty). What really sets these tacos apart from others is the homemade tortilla. This shell is thicker than what you might be used to, but it holds up great to all of the flavorful stuffing options. The fresh corn flavor is noteworthy.

If I had to pick just one, well I couldn’t. So how about two? The tamarind braised short rib taco is sweet to begin with, when chef adds a slice of ripe mango to the mix you’ll wonder why you haven’t been eating sweet tacos all along. To bring in a little savory try the shrimp taco. Lightly breaded and fried shrimp are topped with pico de gallo before a dollop of avocado crema. Simple, fresh and delicious.

To follow more of Sean DeBobes and his thoughts on food: on Twitter @SeanDeBobes, and on Facebook, here.

El Perrito Taqueria,190 Thames St, Newport. 401-619-5502. Also visit E.P.’s big sister. Perro Saldo, 19 Charles St, Newport. 401-619-4777.

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