Inside Providence’s Dorrance: From Experimental to Classic

Thursday, May 16, 2013

When you've been named a top restaurant in the country -- let alone in Rhode Island -- there's a lot of pressure to perform. So when The Dorrance's top chef Ben Sukle recently departed this grande dame to open his own restaurant, owners and staff had to hit the reset button. We popped in to see how the transition is going, and to sample the wares of the new chef, and were so inspired that we came back with a few things we thought you should know. (And we can't wait for our colleague Sean DeBobes to review the "new" Dorrance in the coming month!)

Thank you and good luck, Chef Ben Sukle

When the Dorrance opened, diners were filled with anticipation. One of the most beautiful spots in Providence would finally take it's place among the elite dining spots in town. We were also excited to find out that recent Farmstead grad and Noma stagiaire, Ben Sukle, would make this his first stop on what promised to be a flavorful culinary journey. Together they grew and pushed each other to heights seldom seen in Providence. Bon Appetit named them one of America's best new restaurants and they were off. When the opportunity came for Sukle -- and talented "right-hand man" Edward Davis -- to venture out on their own, it created more excitement for us all: now we get to try Sukle's food in a smaller, "better fit" location with his venture, birch, and we get a new dawn at the Dorrance. Now we wish them both well and loosen our belts for what the future holds.

Welcome to Chef Massimilano Mariotta

When you replace the first chef that a restaurant ever has, you have a lot to live up to. When that chef garnered national attention for his food, those shoes need to be filled by an accomplished, self-assured chef. Enter Chef Massimilano Mariotta. His Italian/ Swiss heritage brings a wealth of experience and passion to his newest challenge, and he's worked on his craft all over Europe. It shows in the execution of his food -- crave-worthy dishes executed precisely, with layers of delicious -- sometimes complex, other times stunningly simple -- flavor. His risotto was the finest we've had since we ate the risotto with peas at the iconic Harry's Bar in Rome...and we eat a lot of risotto! Mariotta is fluent in five languages -- well, six if you count deliciousness -- and it shines in his food. Clean, classic flavors with slight twists that you wouldn't necessarily expect.

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Forget using local farms...this chef owns his own farm

One of the early lessons that Chef Mariotta's grandfather taught him was to get the freshest food available. The markets of Florence became the muse for what could be done with fresh and local food. Those early trips sparked curiosity in the young boy, and soon to be chef, as he thought of all the possibilities. As he grew and progressed in the food world, he continued his push for the freshest ingredients possible. It led Mariotta to make a radical choice for the time: starting to grow his own lettuces and herbs. In today's culinary world, many local and national restaurants grow their own herbs and lettuces and vegetables. Mariotta was on the forefront of this movement in Europe and continues today with a large plot of land that he maintains. With the dining room menu at the Dorrance, the chef intends to bring back some old school -- even Continental -- classics. He wants dishes that generations of a family can appreciate and relate to, and we're confident he'll pull it off. He'll still enlist all the local sources, of course, but what beats a chef who grows his own ingredients?

Fresh Italian with a classic twist

The new regime has begun with a smaller bar menu as the transition occurs. It features everything from beef tartare with Islay Scotch to handmade pastas with light, flavorful sauces. We started with three kinds of bread and three whipped butters. The superstar here was a sriracha butter. Spicy and sweet, it was perfect with the crusty baguette. We also enjoyed a light salad with seasonal lettuces and fresh herbs, an order of pommes frites that were served with a malt vinegar aioli and a finger licking trio of sliders. The lamb, egg and vegetable, and a "catch of the day" fish selection are served on tiny brioche rolls and boast lovely, complex flavor. The egg and vegetable reminded us of Grandma Cervini's summertime zucchini fritatta in all the right ways. The lamb was juicy and a perfect medium rare, the richness cut by a slice of pickle that added nice acidity. We followed with a perfect spring risotto with spring peas, a ramp pesto, morel mushrooms and seared bay scallops. The scallops were seared in habanero oil that accented their sweetness with a little spice. The last dish we tried was the taglierini. This handmade, semolina flour-based pasta was perfectly cooked and tossed with green garlic, truffled mushrooms and a touch of cream. The noodles were almost as small as Japanese soba noodles but still held the sauce well. All and all, if this is just the first step, we can't wait to follow along!

Don't worry...the bar program still kills it

One thing you could always count on was the talented mixologists at the Dorrance. You knew when you walked in that you would be presented with a cool cocktail list that featured classics updated and modernized while they maintained their authenticity. You could count on a thoughtfully assembled wine list that rivals the best around. You could count on a lively atmosphere with late night music when the dining room slowed down. None of that has changed; in fact, there's a new energy here that holds court. Whatever cocktail you choose, count on complex concoctions with multiple ingredients. The result is drinks that are like good food -- you taste different flavors at different times as each ingredient complements the next. We'll see you at the bar. 60 Dorrance St. 521-6000, www.thedorrance.com

Home page banner photograph of The Dorrance: Audrey Massart Photography

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