Gavin’s Pub: Upscale Pub Opens on Providence Waterfront
Wednesday, August 29, 2012
The concept is the brain child of owner Jeff Tahlmore, a JWU and French Culinary Institute graduate, who focused his efforts on cuisine and cultural iconography. The walls are splashed with 1940’s style pin-up murals painted by Ian Gaudreau while the custom furniture, bar and general décor are filled with distressed leather, sheet metal and riveting - reminiscent of WWII aviation.
Pub fare rebooted
The house-made vegetable roll was an instant favorite for me. Chef sautéd julienned jicama, chayote, carrot, shitake and leeks to extract natural sugars before wrapping in tortilla and sending to the fryer. The fried flour tortilla adds great texture to this flavorful dish, while a roasted chipotle and red pepper beurre monté with cilantro provided a perfect subtle heat to finish.
Oxtail chili that sets a new standard
For the epicurean carnivore I must suggest the Oxtail Chili. This dish is born from three days of thoughtful labor. Slow roasting oxtails and separating out the useable morsels is a true act of culinary etiquette. Chef blended this with a mix of Ancho, Serrano, Habanero, Chipotle and the famous Naga Bhut Jolokia (known as the ghost pepper, insanely hot with 350K-1M on the Scoville heat scale) for a heated merger that moves all over the palate. If I could pick just one chili to dine on for the next decade… I may have found it right here on the waterfront of Providence.
Gavin’s has certainly led me to rethink the term pub fare, and I can’t wait until they add an entrée section to the menu (Tahlmore tells me the smoker is on the way).
Gavin’s Pub, 520 Water St, Providence. Open for dinner daily.
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