Five Things: Via Roma, Providence
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
Features editor Tracey Minkin and dining critic Sean DeBobes had never attended the intensely popular, sold-out-for-weeks Vegas-caliber celebrity impression show starring the identical Edwards twins, packing the house at Via Roma on Federal Hill. You needed say no more. They were in, upstairs, at the center table. Here are the five things they want you to know.
One. Setting the stage.
Tracey: Is there anything more Rhode Island than sketches of the Roman Colosseum etched on gold-flecked wallpaper and the smell of marinara simmering in the kitchen? It's already theater. Add to this a spangled-up stage at the front of Via Roma's banquet-stye room, and Las Vegas, the old strip, is whispering alluringly. It's going to be a show, all right, and this is the place for it. Where's my cocktail?
Two. Cocktail hour.
Sean: Starting off with oversized glasses of Chianti is a great way to enjoy a celebrity impersonation dinner. Via Roma's reasonably priced vino had feet tapping and hands clapping around the room in the hour before
the Edwards twins even took the stage. After a big set of Bette and Neil (Diamond... you had to ask?), intermission inspired something stiffer and I opted for a Manhattan. My cocktail was sans maraschino, but I'll forgive them. What it lacked in preserved fruit it made up for in bold and balanced flavor.GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLASTThree. Retro dining.
Sean: Roma's prix fixe dinner isn't creating any culinary milestones, but I don't mean that disparagingly.The classic menu started with a simple house salad with the requisite marinated red peppers and black olives. A chicken marsala reminded me of a great home-catered wedding, accompanied by bowties with a delicious marinara. And what nostaligic meal would be complete without a heaping slice of yellow cake... with equal parts frosting?
Four. Drag.
Tracey: There are celebrity impersonators, and then there are celebrity drag impersonators. Eddie Edwards brings a top-shelf drag show to Atwells Avenue in every one of his female personalities. This night, we got a sassy (but not bathhouse randy) Bette Midler, an urbane Barbra, and a battleship-thong era, big-hair Cher. Gay community, are you paying attention? Love your local drag queens, but get over to Federal Hill to see full-out impersonations... and let's just say, after that Manhattan, I joined the avid ladies adjacent at howling when Cher turned her back to us... and seemed every inch (still) a woman. If you know what I mean.
Five. Victor, Victoria.
Tracey: While Eddie's drag is breathtaking, his twin brother Anthony's commitment to Vegas men is equally impressive. I loved his braid-shaking Stevie Wonder, and his just-creepy-enough Neil Diamond. Both brothers sing extremely well, and while some impersonations are so spot-on it's dizzying, everything is close enough, and Vegas-committed enough, to dazzle. This is a show, quite really, for every age - grandmothers, soccer moms, hipsters with an ironic thirst, and kids who've grown up on their parents' oldies rock. It's showbiz, and what is really better than that? Pass that basket of fresh Italian bread.
Would we go again? YES. We're already planning guest lists.
Hit "Save": Via Roma, 310 Atwells Ave, Providence. The Edwards Twins appear weekends and sell out far in advance. Tickets, including dinner and the show, begin at $39. Call 331-1717 for reservations.
Related Articles
- Five Things: Pane E Vino, Providence
- Five Things: Sardella’s, Newport
- Five Things: Siena, Providence
- Five Things: Trattoria Romana South, Wakefield
