Five Things: The White Horse Tavern, Newport
Wednesday, June 22, 2011
With Independence Day looming, what better time to check in on Rhode Island's incredibly historic restaurant/tavern? Word was that new management was shaking things up at the White Horse Tavern, so Sean DeBobes headed to Aquidneck to tuck in. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. The Scene
This is a location like no other. The White Horse was established in 1673 and its age and colonial beauty are in every corner of this unique building that sits in the Point district of Newport. You can feel the legacy of this place washing over you as you move from room to room. Four original hearths, each big enough to fit a Smart Car, give a sense of the chore of heating and cooking in a bygone era. I dined on a particularly stormy night that helped guide my imagination to thoughts of Washington and Lafayette.
Two. Seasonal Sausage Tasting
This was an exceptional dish and a great way for a diner toying with charcuterie to jump in. Three varieties of sausage were skillfully plated with assorted accoutrements, various mustards, cornichons and chutney. Every variety was special – The venison cherry had a great horseradish mustard paired with it that helped to draw out the sweet cherry flavor. A wild boar sausage was a lovely rose color with a crumbly texture and a subtle gamey flavor. It is hard to pick a favorite, but it would have to be the Duck Armagnac sausage for me. A sweet variety that had graceful notes of duck fat.
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A grilled shrimp polenta really impressed me. A rich and decadent bacon and cheddar cheese polenta was everything one could hope for. This was a base that had serious flavor, and it needed it to compete with the rest of the plate. Perfectly grilled shrimp crowned the polenta before being topped with a really fantastic harissa cream sauce. Expect some serious heat from this sauce. It is worth breaking a little sweat to imbibe these great flavors.
Four. Mixed Entrees
I’ll say it up front: I enjoyed the two entrees I tried, but they came with some sour notes too. Bouillabaisse is a favorite of mine so I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to try the White Horse’s version. The seafood selection was excellent. Generous portions of scallops, shrimp, clams mussels and white fish sat in wine, garlic and saffron broth. However, I found fault in the execution - the scallops were too soft, the shrimp overcooked and there was generally a flat flavor throughout the dish. Chef tried to dress this one up with a roasted bell pepper rouille, and while I really enjoyed the flavor of this spread, lathering the crispy bread with a moist spread doesn’t leave much opportunity to sop up the broth. In addition to the Bouillabaisse, I was also able to try a classic. The individual beef wellington (pictured here) was juicy, tender and full of that great foie flavor. I really enjoyed this dish but again was a bit let down by the execution. I ordered medium rare and received well done. If you can’t hit the requested temperature on this almost $40 entrée, don't offer the diner a choice on how done he or she wants it.
Five. Great Endings
Dessert brought me back around. The White Horse's famous bread pudding was grand - in this case, a sliced brioche, dense and creamy. Sparse use of currants in the brioche provided wonderful little bursts of tart flavor. A bourbon and butter sauce tied everything together wonderfully.
Would I go back? Yes. I can’t wait until winter when I can park in front of one of those epic hearths and soak in all that history again.
Hit "Save": The White Horse Tavern, 26 Marlborough St, Newport. 849-3600. Weekdays 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-9pm; Weekends 12pm-3pm, 6pm-9pm.
Like food? Follow Sean's reviews and get behind-the-scenes postings on Facebook, here.
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