Five Things: The ROI, Providence

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Sean DeBobes, GoLocalProv Dining Critic

Rhode Islanders have sorely missed Paul Shire, co-founder of Providence's beloved DownCity Diner. When Sean DeBobes got wind that Shire was back with The ROI, his new restaurant/club in the city's Knowledge District, he had to check in. Here are the 5 things he wants you to know.

One. Jewelry...Knowledge…Easy Parking District.

Whatever you like to call it, The Jewelry district is becoming a place to be these days. Condos, medical buildings and business incubators are filling in long-abandoned buildings, the inhabitants of which are clamoring for a place to eat. The ROI hopes to attract some of this crowd with its new versatile space that works as a lounge for an after-work drink or a place for a late dinner and a show. With easy street parking and easy (and now ‘unabridged’) access to the theatres I think more restaurants will be joining The ROI sooner rather than later.

Two. High Marks at the Bar.

I was able to try two cocktails that I’d love to try again. The Pear Martini is a must-try for lovers of that class. The ROI keeps it simple and refined—Grey Goose la poire is shaken with a hint of St. Germaine and fresh lemon juice. The result, a sweet and tart blend with a very forward Anjou flavor. Also impressive was The West Side Girl, a blend of house-infused lavender vodka with Cointreau, lemon and a bit of simple syrup. I could have used a little more lavender, but the floral notes were excellent.

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Three. Polenta Fries.

I am still wondering why the polenta fry hasn’t hit more menus. Joining Loie Fullers and La Laiterie, The ROI is one of but a few restaurants in town that have unlocked this magnificent treat. The ROI sets itself apart from the rest by serving an oversized piece of polenta. Fried in extra virgin olive oil and topped with marinara sauce, this dish really starts to sing when you have a bite with the flavorful and bold gorgonzola served alongside. If the gorgonzola was brûléed a bit I may have done a backflip.

Four. What Happened?

When all was going well I hit a bit of a snag. My friend ordered the rack of pork to be served with a sweet potato mash and a pear and apple compote. It all seemed promising, the aroma of the warm compote was intoxicating and the sweet potato mash was delicious. The pork, however, was far overdone – even a generous dousing with the syrupy sauce was not enough to save this dry dish.

Five. Signature Meatloaf.

Sometimes I just need some comfort food ,and the meatloaf at the ROI delivered comfort and meatloaf in abundance. The delicious compound of ground beef and rolled oats was incredibly moist. Chef tops the dish with a Jack Daniels sauce, blending sweet and savory and beating anything your mother ever told you meatloaf was.

Would I go back? Yes. There was a stumble, but ultimately The ROI has me curious to come back and try more dishes.

Hit “Save” The ROI, 150 Chestnut St, Providence, 401-272-2161, TheROIProv.com

Want to know more? Follow Sean DeBobes on the Five Things Facebook page, or on Twitter @SeanDeBobes.

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