Five Things: The Grande, Providence

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Sean DeBobes, GoLocalProv Dining Critic

Cocktails at The Grande celebrate Champagne more than most restaurants, and if you're into bubbles, you'll be right at home.

When The Grande opened recently on Providence's Federal Hill, with promises of French-inspired cuisine in a sexy atmosphere, Sean DeBobes knew he needed to check in on this Euro-upstart. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. Ducks.

I’m not sure if it was my Long Island roots or the unique preparations, but I couldn’t help ordering two types of duck dishes that are worth note. The first, an appetizer, crispy duck wings. Chef Antonio Franco, formerly of Pane e Vino, creates this interesting starter by frying large duck wings before coating them in a zesty chili garlic sauce. This had some serious heat, as many wings do, and I was glad there was a lime aioli to cool things off a little. I am a man who loves wings, and this was certainly a version I hadn’t had before.

For an entrée, chef takes another interesting twist on a more well-known dish. Duck confit with waffles. This is just what you think it is. A crispy Crescent Valley duck leg confit served with sweet and delicate house-pressed waffles. A little peach chutney and honey and this was an entrée that I will remember for its epicurean simplicity. I hope it is on the brunch menu.

Two. Service.

PEI mussels are a standout entree, rivaling any hotspot in Providence. All photos: The Grande.

The Grande is still a little green, and it did show in the service. My waiter was very nice and did a great job with delivery. However, he didn’t know much about the menu and was unable to describe key ingredients. It isn’t the end of a meal, but some folks might not be willing to be adventurous.

Three. Great Mussels.

There are some well-known mussel spots in Providence. The Grande should feel free to stack up their PEIs against anyone else in town. These mussels tasted oceanic without tasting fishy. The sea broth, spiked with parsley oil and saffron, was absolutely mouth-watering. It was hard to put down the baguette and move on with the meal. I could have sat there all night sopping up everything in the bowl. The mussels themselves were perfect—delicate with a great texture. This dish was certainly worthy of revere from its contemporaries.

Four. Simple Cocktails.

The Grande takes its notes from the black and white of the French bistro aesthetic, and glams it up a bit more.

The cocktail menu at The Grande is surprisingly Champagne heavy, but also has enough variety for non-fans of the bubbly. I started with the London Fog. Domaine Chandon Brut with a dose of Belvedere citrus and a sweet addition of Earl Grey syrup. This had great citrus notes but could be easily enjoyed through the cold weather with the addition of the tea syrup. After dinner, I was looking for something with a kick. The Federal 1788 provided exactly what I was looking for. Hennessey VS, Grand Marnier and fresh lemon. Done! Perfect and balanced—soft but mighty. This was an excellent way to close out some entrees.

Five. Savory Finish.

Who says you have to go sweet? Why not try a bit of cheese for dessert. The simple baked brie was perfect—crispy puff pastry adorned with peach chutney and Betty’s bee farm honey. This is sure to be a crowd pleaser.

Hit ‘Save’: The Grande, 224 Atwells Ave, Providence, 401-432-7676. thegranderi.com

Would I go back? Yes. Interesting takes. Easy ambience. Something refreshing on The Hill.

Want to know more? Follow Sean DeBobes on the Five Things Facebook page, or on Twitter @SeanDeBobes.

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