Five Things: The Boat House, Tiverton
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
Nothing like a summeresque week to get everyone thinking about seafood on the water. Which led Sean DeBobes to Tiverton, to the Boat House. Did it live up to its sunny reputation? Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Sunset Cocktails.
As the warmer weather settles in on the Ocean State I find myself longing for that perfect sunset cocktail. Boat House knows how to deliver. The room’s sweeping views of the Mount Hope Bay provide the perfect western vantage to close the day. I enjoyed the refreshing Snow Bird cocktail, a blend of cucumber infused Absolut Ruby Red, Elderflower liqueur and a splash of grapefruit juice, up. Sweet & tart, this reviving mix required a deft touch on the Elderflower, ensuring that the chartreuse-tinted tincture remained balanced. This was purposeful and well done.
Two. Fritters.
Boat House reinvents a local favorite with the lobster fritter. Lobster and corn are bound together in a batter that yielded a delicate texture and a forward sweetness from the corn. The light and airy fritter was complemented with a smokey heat provided by a chipotle aioli. Throw in some bisque for dipping and I might have been the happiest guy on the waterfront.
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The elegance that the Newport Restaurant Group manages to always bring shines through at Boat House Restaurant, but it is still a place for some casual fun. The expected nautical theme is present in well-worn oars and nautical flag charts hung from the bar, but its simplicity allows the décor to set the stage without being stock. The bustling bar seems to be half ‘Cheers’ and half visitors, dictating an effortless and convivial tone through the room.
Four. Pork Osso Buco.
A savory memory was made with this braised shank. Move over veal, this variation is a great twist on the classic. Tender pieces of pork were set atop a super-creamy fontina polenta before being topped with a spicy piperade and a rich jus. I say let someone else dedicate the hours to braising, show up and try this well-developed flavor.
Five. Local Dessert.
Boat House Restaurant sent me away very happy after a grown-up ice cream shake. Local legend Gray’s Ice Cream from Four Corners provided the vanilla base. With a splash of Thomas Tew rum from Newport and a smoked pear and brown sugar granola made in-house, this was a simple dessert perfectly executed.
Would I go back? Yes. Great views and ambience meet great food on the banks of Tiverton.
Hit “Save” Boat House Restaurant. 227 Schooner Drive, Tiverton. 401-624-6300. Boathousetiverton.com
Want to know more? Follow Sean DeBobes on the Five Things Facebook page, or on Twitter @SeanDeBobes.
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