Five Things: Tallulah on Thames, Newport

Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Sean DeBobes, GoLocalProv Dining Critic

 

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Tallulah on Thames has continued to make a name for itself since owners Kelly Ann Maurice and Jake Rojas, California transplants to Newport, took over Pronto's old space on Thames Street and whipped up a delicious, fashion-forward new eatery that can stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the best that Providence, or anywhere, can offer. It was, in fact, one of the very first restaurants reviewed by Sean DeBobes when GoLocalProv launched 3 years ago. So with few precious days of summer left, Sean DeBobes headed downstate to revisit Tallulah. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. A Look Ahead. 

My first course at Tallulah was a great indication of what was to come.  Chef Jake Rojas casts a wide net, selecting a cornucopia of fresh ingredients to pair together in a burst of flavor. My farm fresh greens with Chioggia beets, carrot, radish, and parmesan cheese was a hugely memorable salad.  The beautiful presentation, a real color explosion, of edible flower confetti with greens and the vibrant addition of carrot and radish was almost too beautiful to eat.  The flavorful tarragon vinaigrette ensured that I didn’t leave a morsel on the plate.

Two. Must Love Cheese.

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It seems that the popular fixture at every table, including mine, was the curated cheese plate. A mix of classy accompaniments - Aquidneck honey, homemade strawberry jam, Marcona almonds, and quince paste helped to elevate a great progression of approachable cheeses. I really enjoyed the entire plate; standouts included the mild but crowd pleasing raw Tarentaise from Vermont and the buttery yet sharp raw Bloomsday from Connecticut.

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Three. The Humble Carrot.

I loved the carrot Agnolotti for its brilliant flavor as well as for it reminding me that a careful-detail oriented preparation with nuanced layers of flavor can help even the simplest of ingredients shine above the rest.  The tender Agnolotti  fortified with pureed carrot and ricotta cheese was a star on its own. The companionship of the gingered, shaved, and fried preparations helped to show how the change of just a few details can sway an ingredient so far from side to side.

Four. Standout Seafood.

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I was really blown away by Rojas’ Striped Bass dish. In a town filled with fish, this is a definite winner. As so many great dishes also start, the execution was spot on. A crispy skin and a firm, moist and flaky inside. Of course, the center of the plate wasn’t left alone. Chef pairs this flavorful fish with crunchy pattypans (I adore these), sweet piquillo and fresh corn puree. Next time someone asks me for a “good seafood” restaurant I’ll steer them straight into a versatile table at Tallulah on Thames.

Five. Slightly Sweet. 

I’m rarely in the mood for a very sweet dessert, my ‘savory tooth’ has always won out.  So for me, the Corn Panna Cotta was everything I look for. A little sweet, a great texture and well thought out flavor profile.  Chef creates the creamy blend and accompanies it with the flavors of cherry, fennel and a lemon thyme crumble. Icing has its place, but I sure am glad that chef created this adult dessert.

Hit “Save”: Tallulah on Thames. 464 Thames Street. Newport. 849.2433. TallulahOnThames.com

Check out more on Facebook, and follow Sean on Twitter @SeanDeBobes.

 

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