Five Things: Tallulah on Thames, Newport

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Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Sean DeBobes, GoLocalProv Contributor

Word on the street was that Kelly Ann Maurice and Jake Rojas, California transplants to Newport, had taken over Pronto's old space on Thames Street and whipped up a delicious, fashion-forward new eatery that can stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the best that Providence, or anywhere, can offer. Sean DeBobes sped downstate to see if the fuss was warranted. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

Buy Local, Cook Global: Chef Jake Rojas's eclectic culinary style is spot-on. He blends Classical French, Italian, and regional favorites seamlessly to create a menu that will have all of Newport clamoring for a seat in his swanky new restaurant. Fusing styles while using ingredients that have been sourced from local farms and artisan food makers says Rojas’ chops are worth checking out. This is how it's done, folks!

Egg Me On: My favorite flavor by far was the deftly prepared Black Bird Farms Poached Egg. On the side, a petite pile of pea greens clad in black truffle vinaigrette was so good I needed to put my fork down and take a few deep breaths. Back to the egg, served at 145° and nested on a piece of slightly sweet brioche, this plate--dotted with little chunks of crispy bacon--should be on everyone’s check when they come to Tallulah.

Bomster & Beets: Two great seasonal dishes. Locally raised Bomster scallops were seared to perfection and served with peppery ramps on a sweet carrot puree; a little bacon on the side added salty grace-notes to round out this tasty dish. A gorgeous salad of roasted beets with lavender bud hannabelles was so pretty it was hard to take the first bite… I soon got over that and did not leave a single piece of purple majesty on the plate. No more stained hands for me... I'm sourcing my beet fix on Thames Street.

Cheese, Of Course!: My vote to any place that offers a cheese course. Before dessert arrived I was thrilled to enjoy a flight of artisanal and farmstead cheeses. Paired wonderfully with an array of embellishments; quince paste cubes, almonds, and fresh comb honey were set just perfectly with the cheeses. Dear Tallulah: add a few bites of charcuterie to this plate and it's the perfect lunch.

Classic Revival: Dessert was a bit of flavorful fun. A Pineapple Polenta Upside Down Cake caught my attention right away, and I am so glad it did. I loved the grainy texture of the corn meal contrasting with a smooth, locally produced coconut gelato. This dessert was smart, fresh, and I would be sure to order it again.

Would I go back? Absolutely! No Rhode Islander, no matter how driving-averse, should miss the modern, local, fresh innovations on Thames Street. Just get in line behind me.

Hit “Save”: 464 Thames St, Newport, 849-2433, www.tallulahonthames.com. Mon & Wed 5pm-10pm, Thurs-Sat lunch 11am-3pm, dinner 5pm-9pm, Sun brunch 9am-2pm, dinner 5pm-9pm

Photos Stephanie Ewens

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