Five Things: Spark, Newport
Wednesday, March 30, 2011
On a street full of great dining options, it can be hard to get noticed. But Sean DeBobes had heard great things about Spark, the latest entry on Newport's Broadway. He tucked in during Newport Restaurant Week, and here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Those shrimp nachos.
I could have left Spark happily after enjoying a plate of the delicious Thai shrimp nachos. The shrimp were sautéed with leeks and peppers before being coated in a red coconut curry sauce. The sauce was amazing – slightly sweet accompanied by a low after-burn of spice. This dish was cleverly served with freshly fried wonton chips which woke up this old standard. I was especially fond of the sauce for ensuring that there wasn’t a dry chip in sight.
Two. Who needs the box?
Chef Sue Zinno-Slagle spins the culinary wheel with ease. Putting out a great list of appetizers that you won’t see on every menu in town tells me chef thinks it’s important to serve more than clam chowder in Newport. The latkes and caviar were a real treat. A great crispy exterior gave way to an almost doughy potato inside. A small dollop of sour cream and a healthy helping of caviar rounded this dish out nicely. Next up I tried an Andouille corndog with a house-made soy sauce ketchup. The light cornmeal breading was spot-on. Sometimes you just need some food on a stick.
GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLASTThree. Simplicity at its best.
The kitchen at Spark consistently impressed me with great dishes that kept the ingredient count low. Most of the fare seemed like a dish you would make at home… but tastier. The grilled flat iron steak was perfectly cooked and nicely presented around buttery carrots and Yukon gold mashed potatoes. The heap of blue cheese butter crowning this plate was a star as it slowly melted and bestowed creamy-tangy notes throughout.
Four. Panna cotta, again!
It seems that panna cotta is in every chef’s recipe book this year. Props are due to this one however. A barely sweet whipped cream topped a delicate lime-flavored panna cotta. The addition of golden raisins sweetened the dish slightly. Simple pleasures, again!
Five. At that price!
Spark is incredibly affordable. This is guiltless dining out. The addition of Spark being a BYOB is just creamy icing on the cake. My advice, get down to Spark and start sampling this real find!
Would I go again? Yes. The great deals and menu diversity will have me back. This is a real find.
Hit "Save": Spark, 12 Broadway, Newport, 842-0023. Reservations recommended.
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