Five Things: Siena, Providence
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
When Sean DeBobes wondered which restaurant held sway as culinary king of the Hill, the word was solidly: Siena. Was it true? So up to Atwells Avenue he went to find out. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. There’s the Beef!
The Polpette Grande, an epic, softball-sized piece of ground sirloin, veal and pork, deserves its name. The combination of all the meats gave an extraordinary taste and the texture was smooth and creamy. It absolutely melted in my mouth. Topped with a wonderful marinara, ricotta and a pile of Parmigiano-Reggiano and basil, this was a wonderful opening number. If you order this and a salad you could call it a great (and affordable) date night.
Two. North or South?
Though all under one roof, Siena feels very much like two different restaurants. On the more casual end there is al fresco dining on Atwells and tables in a front bar area. The menu is the same, but if you are looking for a more intimate dining experience, make a reservation for one of the quiet back rooms. For me, dinner is about the company, not the ballgame on the bar's television, and Manager Katrina Delicato was nice enough to move my table for me as soon as I asked. Better yet, she placed me in the perfect foodie seat - one of two booths (pictured right) directly facing the open kitchen. Coincidentally perched directly above me were works by one of my favorite local artists, Coral Bourgeois, whose brilliant tile works make any room a better place to be.
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Such an elegant and delicious appetizer, the California black mission figs were served with a generous portion of super-thin prosciutto di Parma and a salty, flavorful shaving of cheese. To make this dish just sing, the chef drizzled white truffle oil on the jumble. I particularly enjoyed and appreciated that the figs were served cold. I think the frigid application lends itself well to this dish.
Four. Catch of the Day
Siena’s Ciopino (pictured left) is superb! Truly a dish done justice. A huge portion of native lobster, shrimp, littlenecks, mussels, swordfish, sea scallops and calamari all stewed in a slightly spicy, black-peppered tomato broth. This is certainly one of the best deals on the menu and you will absolutely not be disappointed. Just one pointer: ask for the bread on the side (usually served in the dish, it was a bit soggy for my liking).
Five. Doughboys
Certainly not your regular carnival variety dessert. The Scripelle con Gelato was dusted with a light cinnamon and sugar mix and served with a warm hazelnut and chocolate spread… and vanilla bean gelato. Make sure to save room for this simple but amazing closer.
Would I go back? Yes. Every course had me asking for more, and with these reasonable prices you can order everything you’d like.
Hit “Save:" Siena, 238 Atwells Ave, Providence, 521-3311. (Additional location in East Greenwich) Reservations recommended. Complimentary valet. Check Web site for a comprehensive list of hours.
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