Five Things: Sardella’s, Newport
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
Sean DeBobes loves the off-season in Newport, and this week he took a brisk run to Sardella's, a popular spot among locals, to see how things were faring. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Escargot.
I usually wouldn’t associate this dish with a self proclaimed Italian restaurant. After trying Sardella’s rendition of the land snail I just might start. This delicious mollusk was prepared in a garlic, brandy and gorgonzola sauce. Served on a grilled crostini, these tender snails are a must-have when dining at Sardella’s. (Oh, and get over it… you’re missing out if you aren’t digging in.)
Two. Sweet Beginning, Sweet End.
I decided to bookend my meal with two tasty cocktails. Before dinner I had a lemoncello martini. Sardella’s starts with their house-made lemoncello and rounds it off with citrus vodka, a lemon twist and a sugared rim. The flavor was a wonderful balance of sweet and sour with a rich-almost-creamy texture. For dessert I opted for the Tiramisu martini. Vanilla vodka meets Kahlua and Godiva white chocolate liqueur. Add a splash of espresso and Galliano (so fashionable this year) and this drink is a great shake-up of the classic dessert. I will note that the rest of the martini list is occupied with the same old 1995 apple-tinis and the like. After trying the two cocktails of consequence I say: Game on; step out on the ledge a bit more with the rest of the cocktail menu.
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I’m just going to say it… I didn’t like it. On this one I think sticking with the traditional rice ball would have been a better bet. The risotto texture was too dense and gummy. Flavor alone would not have sold me on this dish either. I found it to be too plain. Even with the flavorful marinara that accompanied the fried ball I was longing for more panache.
Four. Entrees.
Absolutely wonderful! I had to order the Fra Diavolo when I saw it on the menu. This spicy treat is seldom seen so I jump at the opportunity when it comes along. Giant shrimp and scallops were served with a generous slathering of the spicy tomato sauce. There was great heat in this dish, substantial and forward while not overpowering. Perhaps even more awe inspiring was the mouth-watering rack of lamb special. Pan-seared and then roasted with dijon mustard and panko bread crumbs before getting a drizzle of a white wine, garlic and rosemary reduction sauce. This dish was remarkable. The crispy dijon crust was blissful and provided a wanted and warranted zing. Here's hoping chef keeps this one on the menu.
Five. The City, The Scene.
I LOVE Newport in the winter. The air is so crisp and the streets are so quiet. All the best restaurants and shops are still open but the crowds are missing. Stepping in from the cold you will be greeted by the cozy wood-paneled bar. The dining room is bit of nautical kitsch but it’s cozy. Most importantly there is a wood-burning fireplace in the center of the room that on a chilly night will be exactly the background you want for dinner. To round out my experience I had a wonderful waitress, Katie. She was extremely knowledgeable about the menu and was a great help in picking from a delicious looking list.
Would I go back? Yes. Trying entrees like these makes me want to… well... try the rest of them.
Hit “Save”: Sardella’s 30 Memorial Blvd West. 849-6312. Mon-Thur 5-10pm, Fri-Sat 5p-11pm, Sun 4-10pm. Reservations recommended.
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