Five Things: Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Providence
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
When businessmen and -women go to dinner, they often migrate to Ruth's Chris Steak House in downtown Providence. With two more luxury steak houses in the neighborhood, how does this one stack up? Sean DeBobes donned a power tie and ventured in to check. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Osso Buco Ravioli.
A delicious way to start my dinner. The tender veal shank stuffing bound in this saffron infused pasta with mozzarella cheese was incredibly flavorful. A white wine and demi-glace sauce provided even more richness. This great starter was served with a healthy portion of tender sautéed baby spinach that continued the demi’s role (which was worth every minute the chef spent on it).
Two. Details Details.
There were certainly some things that I would do differently. The Seared Ahi Tuna appetizer used great quality fish and was complemented by a tasty-crunchy carrot slaw. But the downfall to this dish was in the sauce. A ginger sauce
was described as having hints of mustard. What I received was an assault on the palate from this spicy seed, eliminating the subtlety of the tender tuna. Strike two came with the Hollandaise on my asparagus. I appreciate hitting on two mother sauces before my entrée but only if they are done justice. The refreshing lemon undertones in this perfect emulsion were overshadowed when the sauce arrived ice cold. I know not every restaurant has a saucier waiting in the wings, but they do have a bain-marie.GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLAST
Three. The Meat.
The star of the show. The reason for coming. A petite filet of "corn-fed beef" arrived masterfully cooked. Sizzling in a pool of drawn butter, simply seasoned beef has never had it better. Equal in expert cookery were the lamb chops. Three extra thick chops had a mouth watering sear on the outside that melted when you ate them. A minimalist mint sauce added a subtle sweetness that was familiar and wonderful.
Four. The Scene.
Think cafeteria for adults: not institutional, but not at all intimate. Most of the tables felt like they were floating in the middle of a sea of strangers' space. I wouldn’t classify Ruth’s as an anti-date location...but I wouldn’t bring one there. Brightly lit with too many power suits drinking glasses of red wine. The atmosphere was unfamiliar to Providence and feels far too big city for folks who like a smaller urban environment. The real culture shock may come when you receive your bill. Ruth’s Chris is a contender for the most expensive meal in town.
Five. On the Sweet Side.
With sides like this, who needs dessert? I ordered a sweet potato casserole from the a la carte sides menu. Served with a pecan crust and a crunchy brown sugar layer, this rich mixture was a great end to my meal. Simple pleasures.
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Would I go back? Not on my dime. Dollar for dollar I don’t think Ruth’s Chris is doing anything that you can’t find somewhere else for a much more reasonable price (a non-indulgent dinner for two was nearly $200). I have no issue with paying serious money for serious food… Ruth’s Chris is a great steak house, but the buck stops there.
Hit “Save”: Ruth’s Chris Steak House, 10 Memorial Blvd, GTECH Center, Providence, 272-2271. Mon-Thurs 5-10pm, Fri & Sat 5-11pm, Sun 5-9pm. Reservations suggested on weekends.
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