Five Things: Parkside, Providence
Wednesday, December 14, 2011
Parkside Rotisserie & Bar has been a Providence favorite for both locals and visitors for years, but when a fire gutted the South Main Street mainstay, locals eagerly hoped for a grand reopening. It's finally here, and Sean DeBobes was among the first in the door to see what had changed. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Welcome Back.
Providence has been buzzing for weeks. After a five month closure The Parkside is back and looking as good as always. Parkside eaters will delight in the line that the restaurant walked, ensuring that it looks familiar to regulars but received a well deserved face lift in the process. Of course the rotisserie is back and grander than ever. The new gleaming red addition was imported from France (almost everything else came locally).
Two. The Revolution.
The dining room in the Parkside was stirred into an excited frenzy as people who had been waiting for months returned to their favorite tables. I decided to help the celebration with The Revolution cocktail. Grey Goose vodka and Gabbiano Sparkling Muscato mixed with a dash of orange bitters and liqueur to create a smooth bodied and sweet
(very sweet) cocktail. I really appreciated the effervescent qualities that this sparkling wine brought to the table. For something a little less sweet try (surprisingly) the Mango martini. Mango vodka and white cranberry juice blend with a little mango puree to make one serious cocktail. This one has a bite.GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLAST
Three. Foie Gras… for Days.
I started off with an wonderful foie gras appetizer. An almost criminal portion of the fatty gem arrived crispy-seared over a ragout of French green lentils and a sauté of mushrooms. I would have suggested to chef that there were smaller pieces of the foie to allow for more even distribution of the caramelized outside… I was however a big fan of the jalapeño-infused sherry vinegar drizzle that was incorporated onto the plate. The heat from the pepper blended with the sweetness of the sherry vinegar brilliantly enhanced the rich foie gras.
Four. Grilled.
The Parkside really shone with excellent grilled appetizers, although the grilled baby octopus may not be for everyone. Left fully intact, this dish may cross a line for those that prefer protein to grow in containers in the grocery. If you are feeling a bit adventurous this is a great substitute for calamari lovers who are ready to venture out. The perfectly grilled cephalopod came escorted by charred olives, Serrano ham and a shaved fennel salad. The delicate texture of the octopus combined with the robust flavors of these elements made for a unique and memorable dish.
Five. Rotisserie.
You must get something from the rotisserie while dining at the Parkside. After much deliberation I settled on The White Farms organic pork rack. This dish was a slam-dunk. A moist inside paired with a perfectly seared outside provided the perfect piece of pork. To make things a bit more rich, chef added crispy lardons and a Dijon cream sauce. An absolute crowd pleaser.
Would I go back? Yes. This bustling bar & restaurant is a great spot to stop after work or on the weekend.
Hit “Save” Parkside Rotisserie & Bar. 76 S Main St, Providence, 331-0003. Reservations STRONGLY recommended. Mon-Thurs 11:30am-10pm, Fri 11:30am – 11pm, Sat 5-11pm, Sun 4-9pm. Lunch menu weekdays until 4pm.
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