Five Things: Nick’s On Broadway, Providence
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
One. Evolution of Flavor.
Chef Derek Wagner is simply a culinary bad-ass. Every recipe is well developed, every plate is skillfully executed. The first and last bite of each dish tasted completely different, and it was so much fun. I quickly learned that you must taste the entire plate together to get the vision, so grab a fork-full, let the flavors develop, and enjoy.
Two. Fabulously... Unpretentious.
Don’t let the chic décor fool you; Nick’s is about flavor and fun. (I have never had a better meal served with a paper napkin.) The service staff was tremendously knowledgeable and eager to provide suggestions on plates and pairings.
Three. Some Seafood Starters.
I had two incredible appetizers. The first, a butter roasted native sea scallop was cooked to a perfect blonde crunch. Served with golden raisins and assorted citrus segments that brought out incredible natural undertones in the scallop,
Four. Sweet Carrot Puree.
Accompaniments should accent, not overpower. However, I do have to say that the carrot puree that was served with the herb-grilled duck (left) stands alone as a fantastic sauce. I might start carrying a vat of this puree along with me wherever I go. Swirling with the contrasting anise jus heightened this dish even further. This was a wonderfully developed flavor profile.
Five. Start & Finish.
Would I go back? Yes. Head down Broadway for dinner sometime. If you have only been to Nick’s for brunch you are missing out on a truly memorable stop on the culinary road map.
Hit Save: 500 Broadway, Providence, 421-0286, http://nicksonbroadway.com. Breakfast & Lunch Wed-Sat 7-3, Sun 8-3. Dinner Wed-Sat 5:30-10.
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