Five Things: Loie Fuller’s, Providence
Wednesday, July 28, 2010
When chefs go out, where do they go? One of the spots is Loie Fuller's, a tucked away Art Nouveau gem in Providence's West End. Is the insider reputation deserved? Sean DeBobes took a summer stroll out Westminster St to check it out. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Detail Lovin’.
Loie Fuller’s hits all of my soft spots. There is an incredibly eclectic menu that is sure to please both the masses as well as the most dedicated of foodies. Rounded out with some of my favorite restaurant surprises like Lindeman’s Framboise on draught (find more than two others in the PVD and you get the prize) and Seven Stars durham loaves in the bread baskets. These are the small things that I love to love.
Two. Paint Job.
What a great space to have dinner in! Filled with wall-to-wall murals and beautiful wood adornments, I almost forgot about the striking floor at the entrance and the beautiful mirror-backed bar. This may be one of the most uniquely stunning restaurants in town. And with a clientele as diverse as the menu, it’s worth the trip to Olneyville just for a slice of life.
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Amazing! One more time, amazing! The three that I tried were all remarkable. Starting with the simple but savory polenta fries with aioli, if I never had another fried potato again, that would be fine by me. With a great crispy outside and a soft delicious inside, these fancy fries started my meal off right. Next up was the Carpet Bagger ,a hefty chunk of seared black-pepper-crusted beef sirloin folded around raw oysters. It was simple but innovative, and I assure you as phenomenal as it sounds. Finally: duck confit crepes with foie gras mousse. I would go back for this dish alone. Topped with crushed pistachios, this avian wonder brings rich-decadent-delicious to a whole new level.
Four. Change a little, keep a lot.
I was able to try two entrees. The pork Porterhouse with bourbon caraway glaze was impressive. In full disclosure, I ordered it medium rare and it came
well done, but it hardly mattered. The sweet and subtly anise flavored sauce melded famously with the pork. The seared duck breast came with an earthy mushroom risotto; it was a bit heavy-handed on the truffle oil but the fontina helped to balance.
Five. Beignets!
These cardamom-sugar-dusted delights were served with a sharp local strawberry compote. The French doughnut was a welcomed discovery on the menu and I can tell I will be getting a craving for these fried gems very soon.
Would I go back? Definitely. I can’t believe I haven’t been before. If you have never been, head down Westminster asap.
Hit “Save”: Loie Fuller’s, 1455 Westminster St, Providence, 273-4375. Walk-ins welcome. Open Sun-Thurs 5-11pm and Fri-Sat 5pm-1am.
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