Five Things: Trattoria Romana South, Wakefield
Wednesday, December 01, 2010
When folks who grew up on Italian cuisine made by their New Jersey grandmother are singing the praises of a restaurant tucked away in Wakefield, it's time to listen. And explore. Sean DeBobes sat down for some old-fashioned fare at Trattoria Romana South this week. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Prosciutto & Rabe.
My dinner started out with what promised to be a crowd pleaser - smoked mozzarella wrapped in Prosciutto di Parma and sautéed with stuffed mini cubanelle peppers. While the flavors worked very well, the prosciutto was cut thick and ended up greasy after being fried. If you forgive Trattoria this tactile deficiency you are in for a treat. Next up was a special appetizer that once my waiter described I needed to try. Tender shoots of broccoli rabe were simmered in a light broth with cannellini beans and spicy sausage. The combination imparted bitter, nutty and spicy notes in a light but flavorful jus. Delicious.
Two. Shake Shake Shake.
The cocktail menu at Trattoria does a great balancing act between classics and fresh ideas. The chocolate martini made with Pinnacle vanilla vodka and dark crème de cacao was wonderful.
Simple with a perfect level of sweetness, this was a real star for a chocolate martini lover. Equally fabulous was the Limonada Romana. Jack Daniels meets sour mix (in a minor role), triple sec and lemon/lime soda to provide a refreshing cocktail with serious backbone. This was one of those drinks that while filled with ice warms from within.GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLAST
Three. The Scene.
This South County sister to the Lincoln legend is a bit more chic than her predecessor. The restaurant is rimmed with photos of Italian hot spots and the travels of notable restaurateur Luciano Canova (pictured in some). Quiet but busy, this restaurant is great for intimate dinners or private parties. The subtle service impresses upon you that you are being well taken care of without being overwhelmed. Be sure to ask the manager to pair a glass of wine for your dinner. I was delighted by the impeccable pairing that was brought to my table.
Four. Who Needs a Steak House?
Many people think that you go to a steak house for a great steak. Maybe true, but Trattoria Romana knows how to hit high marks in this category too. The Filetto di Manzo, an eight-ounce Black Angus filet was prepared to perfection and simply finished with a crispy salt-and-pepper sear. The real majesty came in the spicy re-imagined Béarnaise sauce. Expect the usual partygoers (creamy egg yolks and tarragon), but also expect some serious heat in this hot child of the notable mother sauce.
Five. Pollo Aragosta.
By far my favorite item of the evening. This dish takes chicken breast sautéed in a sherry and cream sauce and serves it over capellini before crowning the entire affair with chunks of lobster and steamed asparagus. This is a must-have for any lover of lobster bisque.
Follow Sean's reviews and get behind-the-scenes postings on Facebook, here.
Would I go back? Yes. Visit sooner, but this summer when beach traffic has you beat, pull off in Wakefield for a great bite of Italy.
Hit "Save": Trattoria Romana, 71 South County Commons Way, Wakefield, 792-4933. Tues-Thurs & Sun 4:30-9pm, Fri & Sat 4:30-10pm.
