Five Things: La Laiterie, Providence
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
One. Cheese Shop.
You just can’t go to La Laiterie without ordering a cheese plate. The restaurant sits next door to the cheese shop that spawned it, and is stocked with an anthology of creamy-veined-raw-nutty and generally astonishing offerings. I started with a three-cheese board from the "bloomy, sweet and salty" category. These mongers know their stuff. The cheeses, boarded one by one, were cow, sheep and goat. Accoutrements included La Laiterie's now-famous herbed-candied nuts, raw honey, and rhubarb-strawberry jam. The cheeses were delicious and the accompaniments were masterful (although a bit overpowering).
Two. First-Class Flight.
Simply coming in for some cheese and a flight of wine is a great idea and a great deal. At $12 for three wines you can’t go wrong with this one. The wine list is packed with an extensive array of favorites as well as quite a few off-the-beaten-path options. Order a few selections from the charcuterie menu and you’ve got yourself a great meal!
Three. Raw Food Flop.
Four. Oh So Rich.
I think I could live on foie gras and sweetbreads for the rest of my life, or at least until the atherosclerosis sets in. The wild-flower honey glazed sweetbreads were remarkable. Complemented by caramelized fennel and sorrel puree, this dish was sweet, tangy and truly resonant. The sorrel provided that faint sour-kiwi taste that no other aromatic can endow. Then came the foie gras. Talk about oral decadence. The brilliantly singed exterior gave way to that buttery, meaty core that only fatty liver can bestow.
My entree of roasted Moulard duck was outstanding. The duck breast was cooked perfectly and set atop a mass of smoked kale. Far too many folks think the more the merrier in the smoke department, but this whisper of smoke was exactly right. Enough to accent without overpowering the rest of the dish. Chanterelle mushrooms and a duck jus completed this flavorsome feast.
Would I go back? Yes. Remember, fromage is addictive, chevre is a gateway… but no worries. La Laiterie has what you need.
Hit Save: 184-188 Wayland Ave, Providence, 274-7177, open 5pm Tues-Sat, reservations for parties of 6 or more, www.farmsteadinc.com
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