Five Things: Fluke, Newport
Wednesday, March 09, 2011
In its unassuming way, Fluke has been getting incredible notice from real food and drink lovers both in Newport and farther afield. Sean DeBobes sauntered down Bowen's Wharf to check everything out. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Gin!
I find that people are afraid of gin… until they experiment with it. The juniper backbone provides a great flavor that other spirits don't, and I, for one, am delighted to see two great gin cocktails on Fluke's excellent cocktail menu. The Juiperotivo combines the eponymously named gin with pomegranate molasses, mint and lemon juice. This beautiful amber drink was herbaceous, dynamic, and just barely sweet. The Ocean Drive used Martin Miller’s gin with fresh cucumber, lime and mint--a liquid limo ride to a spa. This all-season refresher was simple and paired wonderfully with a bit of spice coming up on my appetizer course.
Two. Attention to detail--and order
A robust, roasted garlic and rosemary spread was creamy and perfect with a real wake-me-up flavor. Great as it was, though, here's the best part: my waitress waited until after I had finished my duck rillette starter to
bring it out, inverting convention. What she knew, and I appreciated, was that the duck rillette was delightfully subtle with notes of lemon and cayenne, and needed the palate's full attention. First.GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLAST
Three. Apps from the sea
My first of two appetizers was a fire-roasted octopus that blew me away. Served with small bits of Chourico and al dente chick peas, this opener displayed chef's reverence for texture and flavor when creating a recipe. The heavily seared octopus was still soft and brimming with flavor. Next up was Fluke’s famous salt cod croquettes. These little orbs were light and surprisingly not oily for a fried item. Advancing this dish were two great sauces; a spicy piquillo pepper provided just a little heat while a potent basil aioli provided a bit of aromatic grace.
Four. Smart entrees
Chef Neil Manacle has a refined touch in ingredient selection and preparation. I cherished his restrained roasted tomato jus served with a pan-seared monkfish. Paired simply with beluga lentils and spinach, this dish let the qualities of the ingredients speak for themselves. On the more adventurous side was a masterfully grilled veal chop. A green peppercorn sauce heated things up a bit while a Maytag blue cheese and potato gratin provided earthy flavors.
Five. Twisted classic
Nothing rounds out a great meal more than a truly special dessert. At the suggestion of the staff I tried the sesame cannolli with orange mascarpone filling. I could have brought a dozen of these home. The sesame crust behaved more like a cookie and remained super crisp and flavorful after being filled with the delicious and creamy cheese mix. This dessert was brilliantly complemented by a sweet and tart cherry compote.
Would I go back? Yes. Did you just read my review? I think I’m in love.
Hit “Save”: Fluke Wine, Bar & Kitchen. 41 Bowens Wharf, Newport, 849-7778. Winter Hours: Wed–Sat from 5 pm (November 14–April 30) Summer Hours: Daily from 5 pm (May 1–November 13). Reservations strongly suggested in the summer.
Love food? Follow Sean DeBobes and Five Things on Facebook, here.
Love deals? Fluke is participating in Newport Restaurant Week March 25-April 3. Check the site for more information.
