Five Things: Deck Forty Two, East Providence
Wednesday, May 04, 2011
With deck dining season on the way, Sean DeBobes wanted to check up the revised, revamped East Providence waterfront spot, Deck Forty Two. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Grilled Oysters.
Six Umami oysters arrived on a retro indented oyster plate. I thoroughly enjoyed the fiery treatment that these local bivalves received. A nice amount of char was greeted by a garlic butter sauce with fresh parmesan. The cheese was slightly overpowering but the briny nectar was still able to shine through.
Two. Great Appetizer Sauces.
I ordered two appetizers that were themselves quite plain but were both served with sauces that were wonderfully suited to them. A plate of Little Necks on the half shell were sold at a great price point and were elevated by a house-made cocktail sauce that had a heightened horseradish kick, a real tastemaker. I also tried an order of crab cakes that I thought could have had a stronger crab taste to them. I was however very pleased with a jalapeno & habanera pepper infused buttermilk sauce that accompanied the dish - a high-heat marriage with a great fresh buttermilk flavor.
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It was certainly an impressive note in the evening when I received my Surf & Turf platter. At $22 this 12 oz sirloin served with baked stuffed shrimp was a great deal. A perfectly cooked steak had me smiling from the first bite while a delicious pair of stuffed shrimp with drawn butter and a white wine sauce truly advanced the plate.
Four. Disappointing Sides.
The pendulum swung the other way with my entrée’s sides. A bowl of mashed potatoes was completely overpowered with ground cloves. I have had many potato dishes that successfully incorporate this potent spice but Deck Forty Two’s rendition, after two bites, left me completely uninterested. I was also served a side of inadequate green beans. Overcooked and under-seasoned, this was a vegetable that would scare a child off of beans for life.
Five. Fun Dessert.
I really liked the casual Spumoni dessert. Layers of pistachio, vanilla and strawberry ice cream were topped with a sweet strawberry sauce and pieces of chocolate. A perfect dessert for an informal dinner. Be sure to grab a piece for August 21st, National Spumoni Day.
Would I go back? Yes. Deck Forty Two was an unexpected waterfront gem in East Providence.
Hit “Save”: Deck Forty Two, 28 Water St, East Providence, 270-4245. Weekend reservations recommended.
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