Five Things: Cook & Brown Public House
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
When hot young restaurateurs Nemo and Jenny Bolin took over the corner vacated by Oak this spring, GoLocalProv's culinarian had to get in and see what the fuss was about. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
Commendable Crustacean: The evening's pinnacle: a brilliantly designed salad of local lobster with a medley of pickled red, golden and Chiogga beets bound together by a horseradish cream. I could not stop eating this salad and though dinner was on the way I was tempted to cancel that and get another order of that holy hash.
Sometimes, Keep it Simple: Dessert was a miss for me. A well-conceived but poorly executed panna cotta with fluorescent green fennel syrup looked like it belonged at a Halloween party. Served in a glass parfait cup that emphasized the two-tone quality (ramekins, anyone?), it didn't get any prettier once the spoon hit the custard and things started to… well… blend.
Sometimes, Just Go For It: At the same time, there is something to be said about ignoring tradition and having fun in the kitchen. Cook & Brown is innovating every night… from a Savory Bacon & Herb Granola (this might be even better over some ricotta) to a Garlic Bread pudding, you can guarantee that you will try something new while at Cook & Brown.
Hit “Save” Cook & Brown Public House, 959 Hope St, Providence, 02906, 273-7275, http://cookandbrown.com. Open Tues-Sun 5:30-10 pm