Five Things: Centro at The Westin, Providence

Wednesday, February 08, 2012

Sean DeBobes, GoLocalProv Dining Critic

Make it your go-to on the weekend: Centro.

What may be the favorites of visiting athletes and celebrities often bypasses locals. With the word that Centro, at Providence's Westin Hotel, was a popular spot for visitors, Sean DeBobes wanted to check things out. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. Beef cheek.

Centro hit the ground running with a beef cheek bruschetta. This third of a bruschetta trio offered as a starter was a home run. Tender-flavorful-savory pieces of beef cheek were heaped on a slice of toasted baguette. Chef finished this wonder with shaved grana padano, cipollini marmalade and truffle oil. The salty, sweet and earthy finish left me ready to try anything the kitchen put in front of me.

Two. Here for the party.

This place screams party. The long dining room sectioned with yards of sheer curtain and wood panels accented with burnt orange and crimson hues create a wonderful atmosphere for any occasion you need to hold court at. The hotel-heart that pumps through Centro keeps the weeknight dinner service very busy while Friday evenings tend to be slow. So the next time you need that last-minute weekend reservation, think of heading towards the Westin.

Three. Meatless, and not missing it.

I am a self-proclaimed carnivore. That’s it, I said it. However, the open-faced lasagna Centro delivered may have just changed my life. The clumsy name is certainly forgiven after the first bite. Crepe-like rounds of

Tucked away in plain sight, right in downtown Providence.

pasta were layered with a buttercup squash and ricotta cheese puree. For a fully rounded flavor chef sprinkled crushed pistachios and wild mushrooms cooked in brown butter. The texture, the earthiness, the sweet-creamy binder… This was one of those dishes that I will be carrying around with me for weeks. Meatless Monday never sounded so good.

Four. Well done! Well, medium rare.

A well-cooked steak will keep me coming back for years. The sirloin steak with veal demi-glace was right on temperature and the demi was certainly a taste-bud enthusing addition. The most memorable parts of this dish however with the wonderful sides. A pickled red cabbage, served warm, was an impeccable combination of sweet and sour, enough to excite without overwhelming. The addition of fried sun choke chips was wonderful. Crispy and robustly flavored, a very welcome addition.

Five. Cheese or carrot.

Who can choose between carrot and cheese cake? Thankfully, with a dining companion I didn’t have to. This classic carrot cake (served warm) came accompanied with a cream cheese pudding. Sweet and creamy but with a mousse-like quality to it, this was a nice twist on an old favorite. Chef also came through with a spiced apple cheesecake. Familiar flavors blended with assorted winter-reminiscent spices before being crowned with baked apple slices. A simple pleasure.

Would I go back? Yes. A great meal in a wonderful atmosphere, what more could I ask for.

Hit “Save”: Centro. One West Exchange St, Westin Hotel, 2nd Floor, Providence. 401-228-6802.

Love food? Follow Sean DeBobes and Five Things on Facebook, here.

Photos: Scott Indermaur

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